tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79829978087835519532023-11-15T22:21:06.664-08:00around the world in 240 daysjesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.comBlogger272125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-86044736139105183572008-02-22T08:18:00.000-08:002008-02-25T14:21:22.873-08:00Day 254 - Home from the TreesWe spent the morning with my grandmother, stopped briefly back at my mom's, and then dashed off again to go to the jeweler to have some stones we bought in India set and to meet up with my dad for lunch before driving down to VA Beach to see <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Cz's</span> mom. With a schedule like that, it is easy to see how it has not yet registered that we are done travelling. We may have made it all the way around the world, but we are in no way yet still.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PY7n8EoIspERIIna02uW6lO5hNeQdQ3pWPynY0coLgsLUfyiPK4Oajs-CbMHe63UlvASGtu-GMSLJItF9kI20KDDHnm0D3VpIEr081dEvL033EUgveUfDIyTtZhvELz_D7eo-DIm9A0/s1600-h/IMG_6156.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170306912136628818" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PY7n8EoIspERIIna02uW6lO5hNeQdQ3pWPynY0coLgsLUfyiPK4Oajs-CbMHe63UlvASGtu-GMSLJItF9kI20KDDHnm0D3VpIEr081dEvL033EUgveUfDIyTtZhvELz_D7eo-DIm9A0/s320/IMG_6156.JPG" border="0" /></a>Everyone we see seems to greet us with 'What a phenomenal experience', or something of that ilk. It was a phenomenal experience, but a part of me feels like I missed it. Throughout the trip, I was so focused on each country as we experienced it, or on planning the next destination that I never felt like I had the time to step back and reflect on the journey as a whole. As the months telescoped down into weeks, days, and finally just hours, I found myself wondering where all the time had gone. It felt like we had been gone only few weeks rather than more than half a year.<br /></div><br /><div>And that may not be entirely a bad thing. Part of the joy of taking time out of one's everyday routine is to live more in the moment. Living in the moment on this trip opened us up to a depth of experience that we probably would have missed had we been trying to keep the scope of the whole thing in perspective at all times. On the flip side, each section of the trip feels like its own entity. I have trouble connecting that we finished the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Camino</span>, rode camels in the Indian desert, walked across the Himalayas, and visited Korea's DMZ all in the same voyage. Because I never looked on the trip as a whole, I feel like I missed a significant part of the experience.<br /></div><br /><div>Perhaps that understanding is only possible in hindsight. It is not possible to be physically two places at once, just so, neither is it possible to be mentally two places at once. Ironically in eight months, the one luxury we never had was time. Only in hindsight, do we have the luxury of choosing to pull up a certain memory and mull it over. Or to sit with a cup of tea and reflect on the experience as a whole.<br /></div><br /><div>Over the next few months I plan to read through this blog (I haven't actually read most of the posts - I write them, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Cz</span> edits them, and off they go to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">interweb</span> without a second glance from me.) I think I might be surprised by what I find. By reading the blog, looking at photos, and trolling my own memories, I hope to be able to feel some kind of though line on the adventure. As I read and mull and jot notes and sketches, I hope that I can coalesce the experience into a travel book.<br /></div><br /><div>With luck, it will be a travel book that other <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">people</span> will want to read, and so be published. With even more luck, maybe enough people will read it that the royalties will help fund a trip to South America, or China, or Africa, or the Balkans... If there's one thing I learned planning and going on this trip it's that there are always more places to go.<br /></div><br /><div>There's an adage that goes something like "Of all the places I roam, the finest of these is home." There's another saying that says "You can never come home again." Both I think are true.<br /></div><br /><div>Home, when one is gone for more than a few months, takes on a tinge of memory and nostalgia. Even if home doesn't really change, it will not match the Home with a capital 'H' that has formed in one's mind. For me, home as I remember it has ceased to exist. Because we knew we would only be in NYC for 9 months, we <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">subleted</span> someone <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">else's</span> apartment, and when she returned, put our remaining books, clothes and tools in storage, never establishing roots in the big city. In January 2007, my horse died. For as long as I can remember, the front yard had been defined by the fences of her, and her predecessors' paddocks. Soon after we left in June 2007, the fences were finally pulled down. The landscape of my memory was irrevocably altered. In October, Home with a capital 'H', my childhood home, was demolished to make way for a new house. It is a good change - my mother is much happier with the new house, and it is a solid, well laid-out, good building - but it means that even without the filters of nostalgia, there is no way for me to return Home as I knew it.<br /></div><br /><div>Home with a capital 'H' now lies in the people we love - in the familiar faces and personality tics, in the cats who still find the warmest sunbeams, and in the daffodils that resolutely bloom along the now-gone fence lines. Because we left no home to which we could return in the city, it is now up to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Cz</span> and I to build a Home for ourselves. We have found the geography of our new Home in the form of four rooms and a two year lease in Manhattan. We have the foundations in each other, our families, our friends, and our experiences. With luck and time, we hope to build something beautiful with many windows to eight months where Home was nothing more than 2 forty litre packs and each other, and nothing less than the whole wide world. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacYgFoLbDQlEsHD0zCQyw4tcLyCt2l-f50DVp4CZOa_y-jiQo0h68Zr3DE8En9GAdJXIZpJwd10KSS5E3tFuKQ-gQtfowbgwGlbcfVZUtIKqiD-z0Y0JRsh5RsIX2u7QSEpeZTbwRghY/s1600-h/IMG_6164.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170307474777344610" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacYgFoLbDQlEsHD0zCQyw4tcLyCt2l-f50DVp4CZOa_y-jiQo0h68Zr3DE8En9GAdJXIZpJwd10KSS5E3tFuKQ-gQtfowbgwGlbcfVZUtIKqiD-z0Y0JRsh5RsIX2u7QSEpeZTbwRghY/s320/IMG_6164.JPG" border="0" /></a></div></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-49949429397473266802008-02-22T08:17:00.000-08:002008-02-23T13:54:33.866-08:00A few of my favorite things III (cz)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXachGWypd3JseiNw3YDT27OioyJtRVDphX2pywVVo-haeOzpX9bqBrAPXXHYDzOOwZ0ucn65Q7YacbvF9hR2m5qv8Cu-mx0M5jsKOplEkiYCt_UAIDKT0zWirtDgQ5M7N1iimBeM9slQ/s1600-h/IMG_3337a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170297080956488258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXachGWypd3JseiNw3YDT27OioyJtRVDphX2pywVVo-haeOzpX9bqBrAPXXHYDzOOwZ0ucn65Q7YacbvF9hR2m5qv8Cu-mx0M5jsKOplEkiYCt_UAIDKT0zWirtDgQ5M7N1iimBeM9slQ/s320/IMG_3337a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NHhhEYBemZMEA8ponDCjWVmjV1_-E30_JKBFCdqd00FJ9DFtsY7uS0-yvxyYVbui2-Sc3BRAAco6G1YxHbvxH4ADI8M3c8YHPxO5SWiRVbiQA1yrif9hBCt-K4xQ2ySxNvcha5Rh9F0/s1600-h/IMG_4024a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170294602760358434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NHhhEYBemZMEA8ponDCjWVmjV1_-E30_JKBFCdqd00FJ9DFtsY7uS0-yvxyYVbui2-Sc3BRAAco6G1YxHbvxH4ADI8M3c8YHPxO5SWiRVbiQA1yrif9hBCt-K4xQ2ySxNvcha5Rh9F0/s320/IMG_4024a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rZHKRx9ZvU-mpabyVr0uSjDri89bscCiyYeqA9EP104ZQVLAVpyB-zm20o4C9HS3eJaj-NX3MF8_t1L12v-g1xyckYIkvoDoU9Uh0Wba8aAH3_ltAc69tSLRl3a5PExtQKghpTuDwrk/s1600-h/IMG_4314a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170293735176964626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9rZHKRx9ZvU-mpabyVr0uSjDri89bscCiyYeqA9EP104ZQVLAVpyB-zm20o4C9HS3eJaj-NX3MF8_t1L12v-g1xyckYIkvoDoU9Uh0Wba8aAH3_ltAc69tSLRl3a5PExtQKghpTuDwrk/s320/IMG_4314a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUzizPosnQrJ9374z8heSISCeAieL0jMjoUhVAPs2prcH87z5POJHgyTds389bmzbLJyCOKkY0PSm-a5KVyBZ8Q1VH07O3pk-zg5mwMbycFYBDtldLzad2tENpx3QuPFwbzRsQbLM6TU/s1600-h/IMG_4436a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170293245550692866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUzizPosnQrJ9374z8heSISCeAieL0jMjoUhVAPs2prcH87z5POJHgyTds389bmzbLJyCOKkY0PSm-a5KVyBZ8Q1VH07O3pk-zg5mwMbycFYBDtldLzad2tENpx3QuPFwbzRsQbLM6TU/s320/IMG_4436a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yh4lUgDvXUVN6d-c01A3Oo5VIPvg1melHbDBLTXZunwYQ3ICxUSw7FAqLlA6qjOrUV2dg45_F-vuUMdU6qx-fr5-6HpEA3-yheoWWXJdpMBSZrdT3Wt67czHQx7vM7OuxkHBwbKVK8E/s1600-h/IMG_4554a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170292227643443698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yh4lUgDvXUVN6d-c01A3Oo5VIPvg1melHbDBLTXZunwYQ3ICxUSw7FAqLlA6qjOrUV2dg45_F-vuUMdU6qx-fr5-6HpEA3-yheoWWXJdpMBSZrdT3Wt67czHQx7vM7OuxkHBwbKVK8E/s320/IMG_4554a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMOujNBtRLHoT_2ioKdgEWLJRuAxhmIoweFnlxCToj-J41HEfSwJ9423lCjS1x5V7MSnP8b9msEBjRi-4DSJDaOyJPqYMayl_JWB9jmUSfAUVyC2UZiK4U9q8uIjVQ-iqUxsnodSGUMA/s1600-h/IMG_4759a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170291308520442338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMOujNBtRLHoT_2ioKdgEWLJRuAxhmIoweFnlxCToj-J41HEfSwJ9423lCjS1x5V7MSnP8b9msEBjRi-4DSJDaOyJPqYMayl_JWB9jmUSfAUVyC2UZiK4U9q8uIjVQ-iqUxsnodSGUMA/s320/IMG_4759a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzuMrp6SxYPcMicRRsE9CiCNAYuv3FYxNl_SB7Z9Us4o0bJXWRSFrockxdiAI9KT19AJd_d0DgopSVYmeH_HoaQIT9QAxAYPXqebIlOwlG4fQAOcnw-eP-Ij6icI53CYkHv_JCSLfUPo/s1600-h/IMG_4937a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170290359332669906" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzuMrp6SxYPcMicRRsE9CiCNAYuv3FYxNl_SB7Z9Us4o0bJXWRSFrockxdiAI9KT19AJd_d0DgopSVYmeH_HoaQIT9QAxAYPXqebIlOwlG4fQAOcnw-eP-Ij6icI53CYkHv_JCSLfUPo/s320/IMG_4937a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtOAunzk-mQEBUfXou2ssw7msF7AwfjSMFIYtaST-0DYmRxp974530jZyP4HqetKJr5gdfw-clL1_OsxWXxmMOOEeQvGZL-NTiqQUfw0zyy3RM5zPCxYzrcYkbjgLDFQmUz3RLovuJJQ/s1600-h/IMG_5088a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170289354310322626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtOAunzk-mQEBUfXou2ssw7msF7AwfjSMFIYtaST-0DYmRxp974530jZyP4HqetKJr5gdfw-clL1_OsxWXxmMOOEeQvGZL-NTiqQUfw0zyy3RM5zPCxYzrcYkbjgLDFQmUz3RLovuJJQ/s320/IMG_5088a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmX2-79PC47OQzbGe5VIQrRp2Mw54zG8hWEAQ6TYrHr5Tfwt97_hB3Fqf1apdGaZBLG9b6rcJHp_elF2aiDFvi64tpuKkE75yNwoM1W61U1UZjva9XrarA0FfoeSZWhFu3a3HO-4enN9g/s1600-h/IMG_5206a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170288100179872178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmX2-79PC47OQzbGe5VIQrRp2Mw54zG8hWEAQ6TYrHr5Tfwt97_hB3Fqf1apdGaZBLG9b6rcJHp_elF2aiDFvi64tpuKkE75yNwoM1W61U1UZjva9XrarA0FfoeSZWhFu3a3HO-4enN9g/s320/IMG_5206a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEils4FpGJX8gM95ahHmAxDAax08VBC79Sxs2-vJJohaHVi-zn_AVsXvh_kXeN6jtm3HOwr_tsJSakzcULDxwIbAIyhmiC_X6yjbX2TqQ2IuslaskB3UkdTHn3sb47RjD9LK_2ynhrUqk70/s1600-h/IMG_5220a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170286970603473314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEils4FpGJX8gM95ahHmAxDAax08VBC79Sxs2-vJJohaHVi-zn_AVsXvh_kXeN6jtm3HOwr_tsJSakzcULDxwIbAIyhmiC_X6yjbX2TqQ2IuslaskB3UkdTHn3sb47RjD9LK_2ynhrUqk70/s320/IMG_5220a.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaFkpVVLHgV5RWTk6CEXwR7IpKwD27HcLfiX3shMPfM84HmOqjKrJvotb7_XIKSV9QV1ZBD17-sYfovBxBdgVwOPa1KeXAEc9KUxtPoNt1kn9rS4NElLV9tLgBK1FBiQAfgHMRUGH_AY/s1600-h/IMG_5766a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170286111610014082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaFkpVVLHgV5RWTk6CEXwR7IpKwD27HcLfiX3shMPfM84HmOqjKrJvotb7_XIKSV9QV1ZBD17-sYfovBxBdgVwOPa1KeXAEc9KUxtPoNt1kn9rS4NElLV9tLgBK1FBiQAfgHMRUGH_AY/s320/IMG_5766a.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YhCncthExt8wKPgdtgHpJ297KgKc8k_UKaiH_Dme-UcBC2Yr7W0feq1LLleqbgL0BeyEsKFCwXMwkAeEOqkN3nnYcreuich2BcafwqW-hOneek5OyrsdNFFYt0q8VC7n-VbWSsrEhATH/s1600-h/IMG_5954a.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170285128062503282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YhCncthExt8wKPgdtgHpJ297KgKc8k_UKaiH_Dme-UcBC2Yr7W0feq1LLleqbgL0BeyEsKFCwXMwkAeEOqkN3nnYcreuich2BcafwqW-hOneek5OyrsdNFFYt0q8VC7n-VbWSsrEhATH/s320/IMG_5954a.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-1929468864505551432008-02-21T08:03:00.000-08:002008-02-23T13:02:42.006-08:00Day 253 - Effin' DeltaBut before I go on my Delta rant....<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5l52WcPnY0f9q-uC5X9z1QLmQDyI5FUOjsWQoNBIBzEuNYpht1VqMyf-yzCuZMMA6m0sVKeTsGrNpVgv37WHHDFvQz261THwWqpePMq-Zul5Ztxxv8kDUCENClifGtEfQRedQ7TUednV7/s1600-h/IMG_6149.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170209115731298434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5l52WcPnY0f9q-uC5X9z1QLmQDyI5FUOjsWQoNBIBzEuNYpht1VqMyf-yzCuZMMA6m0sVKeTsGrNpVgv37WHHDFvQz261THwWqpePMq-Zul5Ztxxv8kDUCENClifGtEfQRedQ7TUednV7/s320/IMG_6149.JPG" border="0" /></a>Our new apartment is on the 'A' train which runs directly out to JFK. It is also within walking distance to one of the express bus to LaGuardia stops. Which means that if anyone wants to visit us, we are easy to reach from either airport.<br /><br />Fortunately, our friend's apartment is near the 'E' train, which also goes out to JFK. Even better, our flight was midday, so we did not have to wrestle our packs and ourselves into a rush-hour train.<br /><br />Once at the airport, the fun began. First, the computer had a little trouble finding our reservation - nothing major - we found it by typing in the destination and flight time. On to the gate, we went through security with no issues, but upon checking the notice board, discovered that our flight was delayed 15 minutes.<br /><br />Cz moseyed over to the bookstore, while I sat at the gate to watch the pack. About 15 minutes BEFORE the posted boarding time, we hear our names announced over the PA being called to the gate because 'the plane is ready to depart and your seats are about to be relinquished'. I fuss and fret as Cz makes his way back from the bookshop, and we dash to the door.<br /><br />I tell the guy at the door that the boarding time isn't for another 15 minutes. We 'discuss' the fact that there was no announcement that the flight wasn't delayed after all, and that the board is still showing the delayed boarding time. The two employees at the gate were really rude about the whole thing, and I might have cursed at them a little as I boarded the plane.<br /><br />This is not the first time I have nearly missed a flight because Delta has failed to announce a boarding gate change or a departure time. It seems pretty par for the course on Delta flights in or out of JFK. And in general, when something does go wrong - nearly missed flight, lost luggage, etc, the customer service reps are thoroughly rude. Moral of he story is: If you can avoid flying Delta, particularly Delta into or out of JFK, do so.<br /><br />Not that I'm going to follow my own advice. I have a Delta frequent flyer card, and a whole lot of miles built up. Delta may suck, but they are cheap. You get what you pay for, I guess.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtvpzPgvxJp1NrnYZYESXEfXHh1fSlI8En_Zsj_esa3KSfv8BjItmH8X_A6fusy77ng1k5jRI9kn-ycMj06C85frE7FYZ2R1cH8zI8cYE7MQwfSnjbeKQRaVq9Ed4jYeCr7-l2s8ps4mu/s1600-h/IMG_6150.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170209639717308562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtvpzPgvxJp1NrnYZYESXEfXHh1fSlI8En_Zsj_esa3KSfv8BjItmH8X_A6fusy77ng1k5jRI9kn-ycMj06C85frE7FYZ2R1cH8zI8cYE7MQwfSnjbeKQRaVq9Ed4jYeCr7-l2s8ps4mu/s320/IMG_6150.JPG" border="0" /></a>As we lifted up through the clouds, we were able to watch the skyline of NYC receding below us. Unfortunately, we were to far SEE to see our neighborhood, but it was good knowing that we have a home in the city.<br /><br />The flight itself was only about 45 minutes - we were on the plane from 3:45-5:30, and only 45 minutes of that was in the air - and entirely uneventful. We landed in Richmond where my mom was waiting as close to the gate as non ticket-holders could go. She managed not to cry. I was very impressed.<br /><br />We spent the drive to Callao talking about the trip and watching the woods go by. Right now, her house is under construction, so she and my godfather are now living in a few rooms of a second old farmhouse on the property. It's been rigged up with heaters and and running water...the bathroom manages to be both the warmest and best-outfitted room in the house. We couldn't wait until morning, so with a flashlight, my mom took us around the property to feed her new goats saltines (even past their bedtime the goats love salty crackers), visit with the Brooklyn chickens (the little peeps we dropped off in June have grown into an giant rooster and two fat hens), and to see the new house. From the outside it doesn't look like anything special, but the interior is beautifully laid out, and every room has great water views.<br /><br />We were only able to visit for a little while before heading to my grandmother's house which is not under construction and is nice and warm. Once again, we were greeted with much excitement. Unfortunately we were too tired to be really sociable. It's good that we have a few days to spend in VA, or everyone would only get a cursory hi-bye. As it stands, it hasn't really registered than we are back at our exact starting point. We have officially made it around the world.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-16291037718775295302008-02-20T20:01:00.000-08:002008-02-23T08:15:21.646-08:00Day 252 - 10031-3321<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAb-wQNDyw2CxKnhP4hpDbntGI8pBxqpfjXcQInz6uwm07r5rhpSOqRhBkA3vmMi2voJtS1PINYaST1mScnzTsJDt7HAdL2-7LCBMCFU0x_zC6QloR53TntcaDiRrpNp-VSM_TGynUxS5/s1600-h/IMG_6141.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5169564952241277042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAb-wQNDyw2CxKnhP4hpDbntGI8pBxqpfjXcQInz6uwm07r5rhpSOqRhBkA3vmMi2voJtS1PINYaST1mScnzTsJDt7HAdL2-7LCBMCFU0x_zC6QloR53TntcaDiRrpNp-VSM_TGynUxS5/s320/IMG_6141.jpg" border="0" /></a>We signed the lease this afternoon. We now have an official NYC address with an official NY zip code. We are thrilled with the apartment. Aside from being an a great older building with architectural details like high ceilings and embossed crown moulding, it's in a great location.<br /><br />Sugar Hill is the section of North Harlem that runs from W135th up to W155th street. It is so named because it was the 'sweet and expensive' place to live from the 20's to the '40's. Several of the buildings are landmarked both for architectural detail and because of the writers, musicians, and politicians they once housed. Alexander Hamilton's country home is just around the corner, and is now a branch of the NYC library. Miss Sylvia's Soul Food, considered one of the top restaurants in Harlem, is only one subway stop or a 20 minute walk away, and Fort Washington Park is about two blocks West of our building. For a while in the 80's and 90's, Sugar Hill was pretty dangerous because of drugs, gangs, and gambling, but recently has been cleaned up into a quiet, safe, residential area. Fortunately for us, the rents still reflect the darker days to some degree, which is the only reason we can afford to live on the island proper. Oh, and our building is rent-stabilized, meaning that the rent can only increase by small increments, not at the booming rate of the rest of the city.<br /><br />After signing our 2 year lease, we spent the rest of the day puttering around the city and not doing much of anything.<br /><br />We met up with our friend W in the evening to watch a free pre-screening of Morgan Spurlock's <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Where in the World is Osama Bin Laden</span>. Spurlock is the same guy who brought us <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Supersize Me</span>. In this latest film, he travels to the Middle East, ostensibly looking for Osama before the birth of his first child. He spends most of the film talking to the locals in each place he visits, and over and over they express the same sentiments of people we met on our travels. "We HATE the American government, but we love the American people."<br /><br />I hope we can change that government.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-11865671413273619212008-02-19T19:45:00.000-08:002008-02-19T22:08:01.717-08:00Day 251 - Waiting Game<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKhAxf8JcpLQrO2cKcAlwqras3RodKvk9MY4hWk4Koq4fnaNqHPGdkoaQpqHt83OWOqBW5DaNYtmdso0ujLt8ztDqXLwfCpcGdMK3A9GFL6g0AO2o4fRC5z3EIbXjA9CQj3ntTqrUlB4c/s1600-h/IMG_6138.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKhAxf8JcpLQrO2cKcAlwqras3RodKvk9MY4hWk4Koq4fnaNqHPGdkoaQpqHt83OWOqBW5DaNYtmdso0ujLt8ztDqXLwfCpcGdMK3A9GFL6g0AO2o4fRC5z3EIbXjA9CQj3ntTqrUlB4c/s320/IMG_6138.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168939828341278802" border="0" /></a>Once again, we woke up early in order to be at the building manager's office as soon as they opened. And today there was somebody there. The first question we asked was 'what is the pet policy for cats'. The policy has changed. Cats are allowed now. So we filled out the application forms and crossed our fingers that our combined income and credit rating would be sufficient for them to offer us the place. If not, we put in a call to Cz's mom to give her a heads' up that we might need her as a co-signer. As cosigner, she would not be required to pay anything, but if we screw up at all, it would go on her credit rating. Now all there is to do is wait.<br /><br />Because all of our financial records are still in storage, we called the Art Students League to have them fax all our info to the office. When we called, the model coordinator was thrilled to hear from us - someone had canceled at the last minute and could one of us please fill in. Cz was only too happy to get out of a morning of apartment hunting.<br /><br />I spent the morning visiting apartments, and trying to set up appointments to see even more apartments. All of the ones I saw today were nice, and one was even right on Prospect Park in a slightly nicer neighborhood near where we used to live in Brooklyn. Once again, however, none of them was as good as the one on which we are waiting to hear if we are acceptable tenants.<br /><br />By 2:15 I finished all my appointments, and went back to 57th street to meet Cz. At his urging, I called the office to see if they had finished running our credit and employment check. I was told to call back in five minutes. We waited five minutes. We called back.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">WE GOT THE APARTMENT!!!!!!!!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXL9oABPlgtwNzQoYVpsXHP-i3HnS-m5PRi-W9owXMYiAnovMMdgM5HUHNp2gJLZY67ohQfdPiXneJlRa1vOImonmAgzFcxTAisHmXDztDEwciREGMyPbYqRBECdw54sDicC7xsreXxvBK/s1600-h/IMG_6140.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXL9oABPlgtwNzQoYVpsXHP-i3HnS-m5PRi-W9owXMYiAnovMMdgM5HUHNp2gJLZY67ohQfdPiXneJlRa1vOImonmAgzFcxTAisHmXDztDEwciREGMyPbYqRBECdw54sDicC7xsreXxvBK/s320/IMG_6140.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168939235635791938" border="0" /></a>So then we called home to beg one of the parents to please, please, please let us borrow money to make first month and security. My terrific godfather pulled through for us, and is fedexing a certified check. If all goes well, the money will arrive tomorrow morning, and we should have a lease in hand by noon. We hope. I don't think we'll relax until that lease is signed and filed...<br /><br />About <span style="font-style: italic;">our</span> apartment. It's at W150th street. In Neighborhood terms, that's the border of Harlem and Washington Heights. It has a huge kitchen, huge bedroom, and decent living room. We can paint it any colours we want to. The bathroom has a full tub and great water pressure. The appliances are all only 2-3 years old. It has a gas oven. It has windows in every room except the bathroom. It's 15 minutes to Central Park, work, and the Columbus Circle Farmers' Market. It's 20 minutes to The Cloisters, and 2 blocks from Riverside Park. And on the local train, it's only 4-5 stops from the science museum! We are tickled about as pink as the living room walls are currently. Cross your fingers that Fed Ex doesn't fail us.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xeS0ZVeXRKUdWX4M1arcSYnNay3_J2mgVv5JeGa9ctQnoafpyAhXnKSpErQbi7R29hsh-ujWb-_prXRxIs63_fq95nclMi9B8U9Q1ITEV3SZwFlSq5piQeQN4cBadg2GGYhiQmHelYNR/s1600-h/IMG_6131.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xeS0ZVeXRKUdWX4M1arcSYnNay3_J2mgVv5JeGa9ctQnoafpyAhXnKSpErQbi7R29hsh-ujWb-_prXRxIs63_fq95nclMi9B8U9Q1ITEV3SZwFlSq5piQeQN4cBadg2GGYhiQmHelYNR/s320/IMG_6131.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168938763189389362" border="0" /></a>We had already made plans to meet my godmother, Cz's brother, and his boyfriend for dinner. Now that we are not homeless, there was even more cause to celebrate. It was great seeing everyone and devouring delicious sushi.<br /><br />Today was WAY better than yesterday. And we're not homeless!!!!!!jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-84848948395284201472008-02-18T19:30:00.000-08:002008-02-19T21:54:01.213-08:00Day 250 - The Hunt Continues<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmHvJpiTYVdRUKynd31IQ_PBqd5ZdvIGjQQxSFFCw5IvqNBE6EylGxaPfgyKYapgf9zUlXnSIvZeXAsVuhhipvlqll_zYIjlyyml3KvGc2VA6Y6e2khQ9M_gfVyOKM4NxerzR2_4gBTe7/s1600-h/IMG_6123.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmHvJpiTYVdRUKynd31IQ_PBqd5ZdvIGjQQxSFFCw5IvqNBE6EylGxaPfgyKYapgf9zUlXnSIvZeXAsVuhhipvlqll_zYIjlyyml3KvGc2VA6Y6e2khQ9M_gfVyOKM4NxerzR2_4gBTe7/s320/IMG_6123.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168936147554306066" border="0" /></a>We arrived at the building manager's office 25 minutes before opening because I accidentally wrote down that they open at 8, when in fact, they open at 8:30. Cz was not pleased at the prospect of waiting in the cold with a cold. Fortunately, the office is in a neighborhood peppered with little delis, so we soon found a place to sit at a counter and eat tea and toast in the warm while we waited. At 8:32, I called again - no answer. At 8:40, we stopped by and rang the buzzer - no answer. We called again, and left another message, then headed out to check out our other options. Because I was still curious what else was out there, and Cz because he was afraid that because of the cats we wouldn't have a chance with this apartment.<br /><br />Cz hates apartment hunting. Cz hates having a cold. Both make him <span style="font-style: italic;">crank -eeee</span>. Apartment hunting with a sniffly Cz is about the worst way I can think of to spend a day in NY. But we muddled through. We saw a couple of studios at a great location on 153rd in Manhattan that would be acceptable for a year until we found something bigger, but nothing to match the second 1br we saw yesterday. I'm hoping that the other couple that wants the apartment is more successful in their hunt today and signs on somewhere else. Cz is less optimistic, and is freaking out that we will end up having to stay at his brother's apartment for a month while we continue looking (his brother is moving too, and his old apt is vacant for march). As stated before, Cz is done with being rootless, and refuses to face the possibility of not having his OWN address by the time we head to VA on Feb 21.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcaxNMSywZ4h13BMeV8gDDnCgnDtd8H7SWhe6KVWXGNiJsqTOU6BA53KHtqeATRM_Gw6-AqJnexFFJ_uWyDj5sjcEwrAut7oJUhV9dohLtXnTIyFr4iOYcmCxMQRc6OdkiQRIkn0TnTO-j/s1600-h/IMG_6127.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcaxNMSywZ4h13BMeV8gDDnCgnDtd8H7SWhe6KVWXGNiJsqTOU6BA53KHtqeATRM_Gw6-AqJnexFFJ_uWyDj5sjcEwrAut7oJUhV9dohLtXnTIyFr4iOYcmCxMQRc6OdkiQRIkn0TnTO-j/s320/IMG_6127.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168936379482540066" border="0" /></a>I'm crossing my fingers that the pet policy has changed on the apartment we want.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-22244380628999341782008-02-17T19:17:00.000-08:002008-02-19T21:43:31.607-08:00Day 249 - The House Hunt<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYcsdp8am6v3jeRZMsc-krP8_I2BPlInrMg16WHCn4O04jklGbFxF-RGaHG1C9gxH5ziN6do71MF9_cikclyAQUussW76iPav4do8AkLUi3gl9pkN_8kitBU0qAaG6J40ARb4_8m877q-j/s1600-h/IMG_6117.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYcsdp8am6v3jeRZMsc-krP8_I2BPlInrMg16WHCn4O04jklGbFxF-RGaHG1C9gxH5ziN6do71MF9_cikclyAQUussW76iPav4do8AkLUi3gl9pkN_8kitBU0qAaG6J40ARb4_8m877q-j/s320/IMG_6117.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168933497559484402" border="0" /></a>We visited three apartments today, and scheduled appointments for six more tomorrow. Cz is <span style="font-style: italic;">so over</span> being rootless, and was ready to sign on the very first place we saw, a largish studio in a nice part of Queens. I wasn't ready to settle, and of course didn't want to sign on the very first place without seeing what else was out there.<br /><br />The second place we saw was a huge one bedroom with a nice kitchen. Unfortunately the price listed on Craigslist was incorrect, an the apartment was about $200 out of our price range.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMvqKUQRC5peQB0ib4VE9Wdbxlm0-oCtLFOtf12t4J283_5rl-fUkEaNt90RgEclZNRCodQxrhOfOxDKNuT1Hf4oc6IQB-03jvHeWTGXAwIHY3zQLNC1l1GTgXEZtF1LbfJ2Qq-MMbErv/s1600-h/IMG_6122.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMvqKUQRC5peQB0ib4VE9Wdbxlm0-oCtLFOtf12t4J283_5rl-fUkEaNt90RgEclZNRCodQxrhOfOxDKNuT1Hf4oc6IQB-03jvHeWTGXAwIHY3zQLNC1l1GTgXEZtF1LbfJ2Qq-MMbErv/s320/IMG_6122.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168933669358176258" border="0" /></a>Next was another large one bedroom with a big bedroom, decent living room, and an enormous eat-in kitchen. The present tenant has table for 6 in there now, and there is still room to move around. Best of all, it is on the express line just two stops from Columbus Circle, which is the subway stop closest to our day job. The only drawback is that it might not allow cats. As the present tenant said "It's technically a no pets building, but I know people have them". I was ready to take that as a 'go' and just smuggle the cats in. Cz wants to be honest. She said that another couple seemed interested, so we went into competitive apartment mode. We called the agency as we were leaving, and the phone rang and rang, without even going to voicemail. When we arrived home, we called again, and this time succeeded in leaving a message (which did NOT include mention of the cats).<br /><br />Apartment hunting complete, we met up with W and an old TheatreVA friend for Ethiopian food. After dinner we went to see a screening of the Oscar nominated animated shorts where W were met by our friend B. Most of the films were pretty disappointing, but the re-imagined Peter and the Wolf was brilliant. It uses the original score and the original animals (cat, bird, duck, wolf), but it is set in a harsh winter landscape, and roars with black humour. The fatty cat is especially funny. See the film if you can.<br /><br />Home again, we set the alarm for super-early so that I could further troll Craigslist, and so that we could be the first ones at the building managers office in case it was open on the holiday.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-74488891384916276522008-02-16T23:28:00.001-08:002008-02-19T20:45:57.568-08:00Day 248 - New York, New YorkOther than the delay, our flight to NY was uneventful. However, as we approached the runway, I didn't feel the same elation or the the sense of coming home that I felt in Seattle. Perhaps Seattle got all the excitement because it was our first port of call in the USA, or perhaps because it had been almost two years since we had been there. I suspect though it is because I have very ambivalent feelings towards NY, whereas I really loved Seattle.<br /><br />Granted, we had 3 years to discover how great Seattle is, and only 9 months in NY. Perhaps in time, I will develop a feeling of 'home' in the Big Apple too. For that reason, it is essential that we find a good apartment where I can nest.<br /><br />I had hoped that because we were arriving on a weekend that there would be loads of open houses or people showing their apartments. Strangely though, everyone seemed to be planning Sunday showcases. So I spent most of the day trolling Craigslist and sleeping off the jetlag. Cz finally got his full day of rest in front of the TV and video games. Perhaps it will help him shake our cold.<br /><br />We did go out in the evening to meet up with the production manager and stage manager of Merry Go Round Playhouse where Cz will be designing this summer. They were both lovely people and we had a great time reminiscing and talking theatre.<br /><br />Afterwards, we headed back to our friend W's in Astoria (in whose apartment we are crashing) and ordered a huge NY pizza and mozzarella sticks. All that cheese is going a long way to up the 'home' factor of NY.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-19025897881453739002008-02-15T23:27:00.000-08:002008-02-18T17:23:16.493-08:00Day 247 - Last CallCz has caught my cold and has therefore been feeling under the weather. Unfortunately, he is not very good at being sick, and whines, mopes, and grumbles incessantly. It may be a bit callous of me but I was happy to strike out on my own this morning and leave Cz to grouse in the hotel room by himself.<br /><br />First order of business was a haircut at my old salon. Freshly shorn, I walked to the corner to catch a bus up to Capitol Hill, but it was a relatively pleasant morning, and I was early to the haircut (so got out early), so I decided to walk instead.<br /><br />I needed to go to Capitol Hill to visit our old building and to pick up a letter of recommendation from the landlord there. As I walked, I admired all the shops, the clean air, and the general air of relaxed friendliness which has always been one of my favourite features of Seattle. Once at our old home, I was pleasantly surprised that the building manager not only recognised my face, but even remembered my name!<br /><br />While she found our letter on file (she wrote us a rec when we went to NY the first time), I took a walk up to Volunteer Park. The sculpture in front of the museum had been moved to the new Olympic Sculpture Park, but otherwise, the scene was unchanged, complete with frolicking dogs, Space Needle views, and gossiping neighbors. In the two little ponds the koi, which I remember being about 6" were now at least 1'-18". Time moves on even for fishies...<br /><br />Rec letter in hand, I made my way back in to the U District to close out my BOA account. BOA has screwed me over with so many ridiculous fees that I am really happy to finally be free of them. I may open another bank account at some point, but for now, I am going to try to get by with just my credit union account in VA. We'll see how it goes living in NY with an out of state account.<br /><br />Errands done, I reluctantly returned to the hotel to drop off my key, and then crossed the street to the scene shop computer room where Cz was surfing the web and stewing over having to get out of bed. Did I mention that in addition to being incredibly whiney when he's ill, Cz also get incredibly grumpy. It's not a good combo. I think it might be a guy thing though. Most people I've spoken too seem to agree that women are less likely than men to be thrown by a minor illness. Perhaps it is a cultural thing - men are taught to be strong and not show emotion because that's 'weak', but they're also raised to believe that when they're ill it's perfectly OK to succumb completely to (an to expect) pampering. It's one of the few outlets where weakness is not only accepted but even endorsed, and so most men turn into quivering balls of patheticness at the merest whiff of a virus.<br /><br />I managed to coax Cz to our favourite pho shop (Vietnamese noodle soup - good for what ails ya) for lunch. Feeling a bit revived by the tea and spicy soup, we made our way down the Ave to the Birkenstock store. Not to buy Birkenstocks, but to pick up a pair of The World's Best Tights - the actual (and accurate) brand. They are a little pricey, but the last pair I bought lasted over 2 years, and was totally comfortable until I wore them out entirely. I've only seen them for sale in Seattle, though I haven't checked online. I'm sort of afraid of what would happen to my bank account if I discovered that they had a webpage...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jqd5nSnglpQD3iwVKPrIyLy12-yE4GNGgABn_NR0JA-9aum98M423Bfy6lDywxcNhXgwCmQHxJ9Yaml2CUyY-lVsO1eNuLblEqVGLdT1fr4d0IZUxiDuCo_iAQs7r3JUOtGoB66PGXvf/s1600-h/IMG_6110.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jqd5nSnglpQD3iwVKPrIyLy12-yE4GNGgABn_NR0JA-9aum98M423Bfy6lDywxcNhXgwCmQHxJ9Yaml2CUyY-lVsO1eNuLblEqVGLdT1fr4d0IZUxiDuCo_iAQs7r3JUOtGoB66PGXvf/s320/IMG_6110.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168063775271978930" border="0" /></a>Across the street from the tights store there happened to be a movie theatre showing the Oscar-nominated live-action shorts. Luckily, even being ill doesn't stop Cz from loving TV and movies, and because we caught the early showing, we even got discount tickets! By the time we left, it was time to go meet our friends in the pub, and it took Cz 3 blocks walking from the movies to remember that he was feeling poorly and should be complaining.<br /><br />At the pub, the cold took a back seat to the nachos, beer, and good company. Unfortunately the movie ran long, so we were a little rushed getting through our pitcher in time to make it to our friend's thesis show.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mU2rHKv9s3h-BrbUP8nU2SqP2AyvP-RSTA2ATzMHjbGlAfJlGmK9w2QQINygmJ3vP0E7fZUUBowcFPcuh32U51mrPcI4HeSE1sjQgiOMPmjM63BaneLA9mSz0lFs4JD9Fb8tsfouB40W/s1600-h/IMG_6114.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mU2rHKv9s3h-BrbUP8nU2SqP2AyvP-RSTA2ATzMHjbGlAfJlGmK9w2QQINygmJ3vP0E7fZUUBowcFPcuh32U51mrPcI4HeSE1sjQgiOMPmjM63BaneLA9mSz0lFs4JD9Fb8tsfouB40W/s320/IMG_6114.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168064071624722370" border="0" /></a>As for that...Well, our friend's set design was pretty...<br /><br />It was Shaw's She Stoops to Conquer. I think it might have been clever, but unfortunately none of the team found the lightness in the script, so it was very slow. We were guiltily relieved to have to leave at intermission to catch our flight.<br /><br />Our friend that collected us from the airport also generously drove us back. On arrival we learned that our flight was delayed by 1hour. This was a little nervous-making as generally when JFK flights are delayed by an hour, they have a tendency to get even more delayed, sometimes even get canceled outright.<br /><br />Thankfully after the announced hour delay, the plane took off, we reclined our seats, and did our best to sleep all the way to NY.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-64314181510481431352008-02-14T12:48:00.000-08:002008-02-18T17:22:33.368-08:00Day 246 - Love, Seattle<div>Happy Valentines' Day all!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5g4Nm4w9Bd1Rx5dcGESFiy2FZZU5_U0naGadCIWX-n3ZyQ9PzMjRrqZEhlDB-C1fCQUhcqmsWosJZRsRe3PX6CBTU5ZVOy_lxH3K6qPwRwB2QoTvcjO3LAWWBkaKhTrxQTEThqcXaQKRB/s1600-h/IMG_6033.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167312649916417922" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5g4Nm4w9Bd1Rx5dcGESFiy2FZZU5_U0naGadCIWX-n3ZyQ9PzMjRrqZEhlDB-C1fCQUhcqmsWosJZRsRe3PX6CBTU5ZVOy_lxH3K6qPwRwB2QoTvcjO3LAWWBkaKhTrxQTEThqcXaQKRB/s320/IMG_6033.JPG" border="0" /></a>This was our last morning with our friend V. Before delivering us to our hotel, she drove us down to the arboreatum, one of my favourite haunts when we lived in Seattle.<br /><br />Spring comes a little earlier here than on the East Coast. In sheltered areas near buildings daffodils and crocuses are already starting to bloom. Daffodils are my absolute favourite flower, and the first of the season are my favourite daffodils, so my day was already made by 8:30AM.<br /><br />The <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtqgsc_ceaD9zqRItEFPFYU75DPwWHB-FBhIAb62h76Lb0ZBnzZnNwV5j-gyA1KPyUCbMIGzTgRi2Yxe3H1_Ry61vDDPBtyZk4MFgzutZAcNELFJ52K9OisCg_t49MNhiRd08mwUzmjGys/s1600-h/IMG_6036.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167312748700665746" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtqgsc_ceaD9zqRItEFPFYU75DPwWHB-FBhIAb62h76Lb0ZBnzZnNwV5j-gyA1KPyUCbMIGzTgRi2Yxe3H1_Ry61vDDPBtyZk4MFgzutZAcNELFJ52K9OisCg_t49MNhiRd08mwUzmjGys/s320/IMG_6036.JPG" border="0" /></a>arboreatum contains plants for all seasons, including a winter garden. The winter garden is so named because it is primarily occupied by plants which present 'winter interest', such as colourful bark, evergreen leaves, interesting branches, or winter blooms. My favourite of these are the yellow hazel. They have one of the loveliest smells of any plant in the garden.<br /><br />After the arboretum, our friend dropped us at the College Inn where we waited and fretted for a key until it was time to assist a class lecture. I left my cell number and our packs at the hotel, and crossed my fingers that we would have a key in time.<br /><br />Class went swimmingly - The new first years are good bunch, and it was great to see our scenic design professor again. After class, the three of us joined up with the costume design professor for lunch. It was really great to visit with them as fellow designers rather than as students.<br /><br />We had just enough time when we finished eating to race to the College Inn to FINALLY retrieve the keys and then rush to the bus to catch the ferry to Bremerton.<br /><br />We made the bus with time to spare, and got our ferry tickets with no hassle. Cz promptly fell asleep. I ended up playing cards with a high school dropout (he's in the process of getting his GED now) kid with black and red hair for most of the route. He knew all kinds of card games including one that's 'fun to play in jail'. I thought it best not to ask. In between playing cards with GED boy, I spent time looking out the windows, and even spotted a harbor seal!<br /><br />In Bremerton, it was a simple matter to catch another set of buses to the housing complex where Cz's dad is staying. He met us in his nice, 1br apartment with bags of food and news that some friends would be coming over soon. Unfortunately, both Cz and I have rather spectacular colds, so wound up napping until the guests arrived. We managed to be sociable for the little party, and really had a great time.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWWtQ-5GYyy0XhNaxBFdqQHXaV2mNEt2AZwK-IdLxjkXYLBs_TW9RXnx7_TgVlXhYRuprwDARjF5A_2TmsFkzLcWeHhj1AgbtTrx6zdvZUdRfi7cZNySGwq_bd1IMV1PRpdT207uQObwd/s1600-h/IMG_6103.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167312847484913570" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWWtQ-5GYyy0XhNaxBFdqQHXaV2mNEt2AZwK-IdLxjkXYLBs_TW9RXnx7_TgVlXhYRuprwDARjF5A_2TmsFkzLcWeHhj1AgbtTrx6zdvZUdRfi7cZNySGwq_bd1IMV1PRpdT207uQObwd/s320/IMG_6103.JPG" border="0" /></a>On the return trip, the lights of Seattle glittered across the harbor. I wasn't able to get a good picture from the ferry, but once we were on solid ground we snapped this shot. Check out the building near the right side of the picture. You can just make out the Space Needle on the far left.<br /><br />Love from Seattle indeed.<br /></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-28193258549760830862008-02-13T16:10:00.000-08:002008-02-17T12:59:10.727-08:00Day 245 - Home<div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXaJalZEVbp49IWXh2oWysG4MoW6BTyxVw3Ryre57NIj2pag0XJhIIjld-xjjnmM1Nr7TqUPgETrdgJ-mSyMWJ202IYoZ_dPJCNlJHxBGfsv0Jcw_ZqbDgwUhqfadXrZNQuefoO3ubt9C/s1600-h/IMG_5994.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166623866011158370" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXaJalZEVbp49IWXh2oWysG4MoW6BTyxVw3Ryre57NIj2pag0XJhIIjld-xjjnmM1Nr7TqUPgETrdgJ-mSyMWJ202IYoZ_dPJCNlJHxBGfsv0Jcw_ZqbDgwUhqfadXrZNQuefoO3ubt9C/s320/IMG_5994.JPG" border="0" /></a>When we lived in Seattle, we spent very little time in our apartment. Home was the studio and our respective shops more than anywhere else, so today we sat in on Studio class (the main class for UW grads, held in where else, but in The Studio, it's to the right of the ticket office). It hasn't changed. There are a few more shelves, and there may be a new coat of paint, but there's still the coffee shakes, the completely unproduceable ideas, and the futile attempt to make sensible discussion on 3hours of sleep. I've missed that.<br /><br /><div>After class, we went to lunch with the two students left from our generation (they were first years our second year) and a group of current first years. It was comforting to feel a part of design graduate student life again; to be a part of a world with which we were so familiar.</div><br /><div>After lunch we stopped briefly to see the major renovations being done on the theatre in which Cz did his thesis show, and then walked up to the main theatre building to visit the costume shop. Before I knew it, the afternoon had flown by, and it was too late to catch the ferry out to Bremerton to visit Cz's dad. Luckily our cell phones are back on, so Cz and I quickly called and shuffled all our commitments around in order to go out tomorrow instead.</div><br /><div>Which has the added bonus of being able to see one production tonight, and another two friends' thesis show on Friday.<br /><br />This evening's production Wild Black Eyed Susans was a bit of a mixed bag. The script read like a lifetime movie - it had several good moments, but was overly sentimental. The set, which was our reason for going, however, was lovely. The scene shop had managed to find an old trailer home (a real one) and put it onstage. The evident rot and wear that old trailor had couldn't be reproduced with new goods!<br /><br />Overall, it was a very satisfying day of reminscing.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qEEtnbnsrWEEAfNs9j3e9gvXNLD48Px28ajZtbbN19slbQCwfyIJbvHX7jB0zKgSK3wkgCIBwJ2hqUNcb2ghI39yVOnjpg8tUO3pFGlIIdQpi3QOgMct7VWHHksahdSslMcQuAP-PqQz/s1600-h/IMG_6029.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167310966289237874" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qEEtnbnsrWEEAfNs9j3e9gvXNLD48Px28ajZtbbN19slbQCwfyIJbvHX7jB0zKgSK3wkgCIBwJ2hqUNcb2ghI39yVOnjpg8tUO3pFGlIIdQpi3QOgMct7VWHHksahdSslMcQuAP-PqQz/s320/IMG_6029.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-68341072757253582962008-02-12T16:08:00.000-08:002008-02-13T18:55:15.769-08:00Day 244 - 2/12/08 Again...Courtesy of that wacky international date line. We actually arrived in Seattle 9 hours BEFORE we left Korea. The time difference is minus 24 (the date line), plus 7 (the seven times zones one physically crosses). Confused? I don't quite understand it either.<br /><br />The flight from Korea was pretty bumpy. Luckily, I took a massive dose of motion-sickness medicine before we took off, which both kept me from feeling ill, and also knocked me out, so I was able to sleep through the worst of it. Cz was not so fortunate. I gave him some of my drugs mid-flight, but it was already too late to help very much. He was looking pretty green by the time we landed.<br /><br />*sidenote* if you have no Drammamine (or even if you do) a hefty dab of Tiger Balm under the nose stings like hell but provides instant relief of motion sickness. Sipping ginger salts or chewing a bit of ginger also helps<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRDY9dAQKZWq-kR5TTzmTHAgtFFO86X_e3oNmi1HJ3lxWsjX6spnrdpaejJNrZuq_-RYRVOPCE7NLi5h3DMBNJgxaz6B7vKtwltozMXB0BMv7JU9V5IYEFMSarf8p8k5SHsJEgg6DlsXtp/s1600-h/IMG_5993.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166621087167317842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRDY9dAQKZWq-kR5TTzmTHAgtFFO86X_e3oNmi1HJ3lxWsjX6spnrdpaejJNrZuq_-RYRVOPCE7NLi5h3DMBNJgxaz6B7vKtwltozMXB0BMv7JU9V5IYEFMSarf8p8k5SHsJEgg6DlsXtp/s320/IMG_5993.JPG" border="0" /></a>Despite the roughness of the flight, we arrived in Seattle more than an hour ahead of schedule.<br /><br />And breezed through customs. It went like so, and took less than half an hour, including waiting in line.<br /><br /><em>Customs Guy (CG) - How long have you been out of the country.</em><br /><br /><em>Us (with some trepidation) - 8 months</em><br /><br /><em>CG - What were you doing</em><br /><br /><em>Us - I got a travel grant through the UW</em><br /><br /><em>CG - Wow! That sounds great. Welcome home</em><br /><br />And then we were back in the US. It was that simple.<br /><br />A friend from the UW picked us up from the airport and brought us to the house of a longtime family friend. We ate lunch, and promptly conked out for nearly 5 hours, stirring only to change loads of laundry in the washing machine and dryer.<br /><br />In the evening, we met up with several of our former classmates from the UW in our old haunt of the College Inn Pub. What was strange was how not-strange it felt. I expected to feel some distance or disconnect, but slipping back into old banter and designer-speak, eating nachos, and ordering beer by the pitcher for the table came as naturally as if we had never left.<br /><br />In fact, it feels like we have been gone barely 8 weeks rather than 8 months. The amount of time only registers when I think about all the things we have seen, and realise that there is no way we could have done all that in a short time.<br /><br />The strangest thing so far is being surrounded by American accents. For the whole trip, we have been able to get by with English, and have been surrounded by English-speaking fellow travellers, but never this saturation, this background babble of American voices.<br /><br />It hasn't really sunk in yet that we are back in the country for good. Right now, it feels like just another stop in our travels, and in a sense, it is. We are visiting friends in Seattle for a few days, then heading to NY for a few days, and then on to Viriginia. We don't really stop travelling until March, when we (hopefully) move into an apartment of our very own in NYC. I expect that it won't hit me until the end of March or beginning of April. I will probably not be very pleasent to be around for a few weeks when that happens.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-46074442543887367632008-02-12T09:27:00.000-08:002008-02-13T18:49:21.274-08:00Day 243 - 2/12/08 Last Day AbroadPS from yesterday. Namdaemun Gate (the one that burned down) was inscribed with fire symbols to protect Seoul and Gyeonbukung Palace from fire. I guess it worked. The city is still standing...<br /><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcR5xUMNZdrIWVd42BQvnaGdgXyGxT9Kig32vK2biuXhIF6DnQUY6YkFV79Cf1aAignIgU8WX3oNGRuGwmQJny5TL_nZOLTyetGtSOQ8kJ6UbwQ-kRBa4KDJtjjAaZ4pYivUqshaLpenJa/s1600-h/IMG_5972.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166618926798767874" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcR5xUMNZdrIWVd42BQvnaGdgXyGxT9Kig32vK2biuXhIF6DnQUY6YkFV79Cf1aAignIgU8WX3oNGRuGwmQJny5TL_nZOLTyetGtSOQ8kJ6UbwQ-kRBa4KDJtjjAaZ4pYivUqshaLpenJa/s320/IMG_5972.JPG" border="0" /></a>Today we visited Changdeokung Palace where the unfortunate Prince Seja on whose life <em>Intimacy Between Father and Son</em> is based on met his demise. In both history and the play, Seja goes insane with murder and debauchery. His father, to save the dynasty, kills Seja, and names his son (the king's grandson) the new Crown Prince. That boy grows up to become one of the best loved rulers in Korean history, and the dynasty continues until the Japanese occupation in 1910.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6Phyphenhyphen6o2pWNMcu9JjxffQ_t4ruPaDwenKkre8E9vWLpfzE7jkPHhv31-gR3auZCMNMRjMtPuBxY4N_G7A28yZdISpcj_u0oG554Scq6Fjf2BpMvCmFIpmQrK09kQv881qyMDHIZVqI1Hw/s1600-h/IMG_5955.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166618703460468466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6Phyphenhyphen6o2pWNMcu9JjxffQ_t4ruPaDwenKkre8E9vWLpfzE7jkPHhv31-gR3auZCMNMRjMtPuBxY4N_G7A28yZdISpcj_u0oG554Scq6Fjf2BpMvCmFIpmQrK09kQv881qyMDHIZVqI1Hw/s320/IMG_5955.JPG" border="0" /></a>The palace is an interesting blend of East and West. From the outside, the structures are pure traditional Korean. Inside, however, because it was used by the royal family until 1910, the furnishings and light fixtures are very European.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sAPMRb6po6e6U2vEyvWRUXIDJUHdAtDoUZWIK3IvBwN82Hu_aeosjE7cRJQm0Syg-ToSINDZE4_HLVpMLvBv16gQDV_07V8W4vKJjSOj7s4LMyXroDnl79Lx5dFan8ylqG4QNV94bo5F/s1600-h/IMG_5978.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166619111482361618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sAPMRb6po6e6U2vEyvWRUXIDJUHdAtDoUZWIK3IvBwN82Hu_aeosjE7cRJQm0Syg-ToSINDZE4_HLVpMLvBv16gQDV_07V8W4vKJjSOj7s4LMyXroDnl79Lx5dFan8ylqG4QNV94bo5F/s320/IMG_5978.JPG" border="0" /></a>The palace is perhaps best known for its gardens, and for the way the buildings blend in with the surounding nature. Other palaces in Seoul are built symmetrically. Changdeokung is asymetrical, following instead the natural lay of the land. The result is a feeling of harmony throughout.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1TvB2P6-ZeulB5X93b5_g0jjtpqkg6fzVFzDDxjxKdmmZNPpgGo7N7frqI-mJvKYtmWVvF9v86djMDDUGNvsxCCOuhwc72IGLxhkVSqI_d-bGieWzd98rq5jAKd3ZBsVdsJdlfZQV4Pbp/s1600-h/IMG_5981.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166619257511249698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1TvB2P6-ZeulB5X93b5_g0jjtpqkg6fzVFzDDxjxKdmmZNPpgGo7N7frqI-mJvKYtmWVvF9v86djMDDUGNvsxCCOuhwc72IGLxhkVSqI_d-bGieWzd98rq5jAKd3ZBsVdsJdlfZQV4Pbp/s320/IMG_5981.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the tour, we were too cold to find a new restaurant, so we instead visited one near the palace where had eaten before. Korean meals are as much about the condiments as they are the main dishes. However, the condiments are never listed on the menu, so even if you know what your main dish is going to be, the sides are always a surprise. The little dishes that arrived with my meal this time included pickled sweet potato vine (one of my favourites), bok choy kimchee, and candied dried squid (at least that's what I think it was) - strange, but very tasty. </div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fJdbvSBKaOSNnf7OTWgbVEn787BT3SvYduGSmd4SfeY_AjWYpKacfS76hked6liuvjXicdaFYz5yi8nbeRVnY1NJM3Pl4-Bx-45NvgaQv3C4VzphVCo4dSGVDfLhrOlMwpRgX1vbCRkg/s1600-h/IMG_5983.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166619455079745330" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fJdbvSBKaOSNnf7OTWgbVEn787BT3SvYduGSmd4SfeY_AjWYpKacfS76hked6liuvjXicdaFYz5yi8nbeRVnY1NJM3Pl4-Bx-45NvgaQv3C4VzphVCo4dSGVDfLhrOlMwpRgX1vbCRkg/s320/IMG_5983.JPG" border="0" /></a>After lunch, we braved the cold to make a quick dash downtown to see the Hammering Man sculpture. The sculptors' names sounded familiar, and we were both well aquainted with Seattle's Hammering Man, so we were curious to see if it was the same one. Sure enough, it was as if a little piece of the Pacific Northwest had found its way to a street corner in Seoul.</div><br /><div>By the time we found Hammering Man - he's in the guidebook, but not on the map - we barely had time to dash back to the hostel and grab our packs before hopping on the bus to the airport.</div><br /><div>This time tomorrow/today, courtesy of the international date line, we will be back in Seattle having lunch with a friend of the family.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglREPC8cMVsmC5jxPCQKI1dm-jnc5unAWgTqzm6JGMbZwPNzvIcvgUFZWEZGB_4LvBnZO4eRjuzJiUO_KhyBPFoO6lbvFxn48k4AHF8xkGW71HzX6xiP_SFUB7ONvGiOURLX_h96mHhJKH/s1600-h/IMG_5987.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166619734252619586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglREPC8cMVsmC5jxPCQKI1dm-jnc5unAWgTqzm6JGMbZwPNzvIcvgUFZWEZGB_4LvBnZO4eRjuzJiUO_KhyBPFoO6lbvFxn48k4AHF8xkGW71HzX6xiP_SFUB7ONvGiOURLX_h96mHhJKH/s320/IMG_5987.JPG" border="0" /></a>Leave it to world travel to make tomorrow happen today.</div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-33655871493416155992008-02-11T06:37:00.000-08:002008-02-11T18:08:21.099-08:00Day 242 - Never Put off 'til Tomorrow...<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikl0lb9n6XJ846mpajD-YKtiNPYrmOfjtu9hiSKd7zsqC8t6f09zGqcQhs5NwA_KQQZZQIHfFLkdIJ_gec93TlDil8rBYvAWuw9AT6ymMTCnzp4OceJXHBRKnqLsFe4i9DNMJyaQe-hlHB/s1600-h/IMG_5861.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165735331766896242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikl0lb9n6XJ846mpajD-YKtiNPYrmOfjtu9hiSKd7zsqC8t6f09zGqcQhs5NwA_KQQZZQIHfFLkdIJ_gec93TlDil8rBYvAWuw9AT6ymMTCnzp4OceJXHBRKnqLsFe4i9DNMJyaQe-hlHB/s320/IMG_5861.JPG" border="0" /></a>What you can do today. Because the 14th century monument you were planning to photograph might burn down in the night. Really. We had planned to take pictures of the Namdaemun Gate last night, but decided to wait until today to get both a day and a night shot. When we arrived at the hostel last night however, the entire staff was gathered around the TV watching in shock as Seoul's national treasure #1, the oldest wooden structure in the city, went up in flames. Arson is suspected. Our photo opportunity turned to ashes. Literally.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtVmQw8FMAmRNfQzFovrtdMDIU9Dx9RwgJizmKm3C459KCXyvU8GJxhm-ajzRU3S8frx95jKmOORcpdMzH6lwuqRk7HOZIuAFNrrSTPT2A_DMyzwAdn9i_ilsPsUK3o8vrPFGHka37mZe/s1600-h/IMG_5875.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165735580874999426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtVmQw8FMAmRNfQzFovrtdMDIU9Dx9RwgJizmKm3C459KCXyvU8GJxhm-ajzRU3S8frx95jKmOORcpdMzH6lwuqRk7HOZIuAFNrrSTPT2A_DMyzwAdn9i_ilsPsUK3o8vrPFGHka37mZe/s320/IMG_5875.JPG" border="0" /></a>The gate stood in the heart of the business district, which could easily be mistaken for Manhattan with soaring skyscrapers standing sentry over hoardes of people all carfully choreographed by the traffic lights. We arrived right before lunchtime, and floatillas of businessmen in nearly identical suits flocked to and from the ruins on their way to lunch. It was sort of surreal.</p><p>From there, it was a little walk to the Seoul Museum of Art, which according to my guidebook, was the only museum open on Mondays. My guidebook was wrong. It was deciededly closed.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgAA0jVKdjyAjzkjsXd8krwlY2oIv2FOYhxBnr8drWR73niqKT7q1Kpgxnl2ufZDO8y1Xd9MlHaLYerr_Cr58mKyc5uLSqkkGm8gERK6rz7cw9OUmEcFhHDgwrqYHVu6FtN4Z9hT19TnI/s1600-h/IMG_5882.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165736272364734098" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgAA0jVKdjyAjzkjsXd8krwlY2oIv2FOYhxBnr8drWR73niqKT7q1Kpgxnl2ufZDO8y1Xd9MlHaLYerr_Cr58mKyc5uLSqkkGm8gERK6rz7cw9OUmEcFhHDgwrqYHVu6FtN4Z9hT19TnI/s320/IMG_5882.JPG" border="0" /></a>So we walked back to Namdaemun, whose market supposedly boasted a store with 2 floors of toys. Head filled with visions of Gundam, PSP's, and Transformer's, Cz really wanted to pay a visit. It too proved dissapointing, occupying only 1 floor, and containing only a few shelves of Gundam, though the market itself was pretty impressive.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXHmM0QngCpbukWZv4HGwKlj8PsESFNgMqjfjIwtFVBg-ekJbS3ZxYBag1lChDXbv-geOENfcVBTOPGOLzp8K-K13s8j8heAFPdnYgX4cx2AMv9MhTvQ9Y2A_1A3gNNxjW46bbAza5g27/s1600-h/IMG_5892.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165736542947673762" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXHmM0QngCpbukWZv4HGwKlj8PsESFNgMqjfjIwtFVBg-ekJbS3ZxYBag1lChDXbv-geOENfcVBTOPGOLzp8K-K13s8j8heAFPdnYgX4cx2AMv9MhTvQ9Y2A_1A3gNNxjW46bbAza5g27/s320/IMG_5892.JPG" border="0" /></a>Undaunted, we headed out to the (hard to find) Myong Dong Cathedral, oldest Catholic church in Korea, and known for its neogothic architecture. It was under renovation. Behind screens. At least the inside was open.</p><p>Seoul has a kimchi museum in the Coex Mall (where we spent day 1). It was closed then for the Lunar New Year. Turns out it's closed Mondays too.</p><p>By now I was so frustrated with spending my last full day in Korea travelling from burned, closed, and under renovation attractions that I was ready to hit someone. So we went to the Coex arcade and blew up a legion of zombies. That made me feel better.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hioQ2NwJTsefzE63Vv0o5PmJH9BCRZ5f_SrdnFlNtJdA_CUu0ERfiNX6QRY6THGMsZl97MykSQoTSchyMVi-DdkdEphzb8rjB3SQPDnMY5P1fqstD-DCeSdkdMCnTt61rvqESmfOgry4/s1600-h/IMG_5902.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165736822120548018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hioQ2NwJTsefzE63Vv0o5PmJH9BCRZ5f_SrdnFlNtJdA_CUu0ERfiNX6QRY6THGMsZl97MykSQoTSchyMVi-DdkdEphzb8rjB3SQPDnMY5P1fqstD-DCeSdkdMCnTt61rvqESmfOgry4/s320/IMG_5902.JPG" border="0" /></a>Then we went to 63 Tower, Seoul's tallest building. The Imax was already closed, but the aquarium and skydeck, with views of the city were both open. In addition to the fishes, the aquarium was also home to a flock of penguins (who did <em>not</em> tapdance), seals, sea lions, and a friendly sea turtle. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelhALT6XZpCt0R_73IaMIoZ_7aMLO_Smje0AmeUCWeOxwiOV0cQUjN45LkFbzUpqvU1b8MDExM2LJwr6yAhuFplP6KMHoJs_HGvlnxLTdCvoVCOnzKkY7mIUNpcmRcaVQpG-TlY3chQgX/s1600-h/IMG_5941.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165737058343749314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelhALT6XZpCt0R_73IaMIoZ_7aMLO_Smje0AmeUCWeOxwiOV0cQUjN45LkFbzUpqvU1b8MDExM2LJwr6yAhuFplP6KMHoJs_HGvlnxLTdCvoVCOnzKkY7mIUNpcmRcaVQpG-TlY3chQgX/s320/IMG_5941.JPG" border="0" /></a>One touch tank consisted of the standard starfish and hermit crabs, but another was populated by 'Dr fish', small fishes that feed on dead skin. Plexi boxes with finger holes invited a feeding frenzy on anyone who dunked winter-chapped fingertips. The little fish mouths tickled fiercely, and kind of gave Cz the heeby-jeebies, but he held out long enough for a picture.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-hPOHPH4kPW7-l912IGDCtM56Rezqd9blADsiDYlVHuQG1VLcnBHEq-lhP31vUxSFCJsvaQE9yyDKS_suvE3-3_vzYY9nzC_yKwz_epz4N8ONVR_E3UDNoHlyq937Vut522AnBa7NgGY/s1600-h/IMG_5942.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165737470660609746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-hPOHPH4kPW7-l912IGDCtM56Rezqd9blADsiDYlVHuQG1VLcnBHEq-lhP31vUxSFCJsvaQE9yyDKS_suvE3-3_vzYY9nzC_yKwz_epz4N8ONVR_E3UDNoHlyq937Vut522AnBa7NgGY/s320/IMG_5942.JPG" border="0" /></a>A feature of every Asian aquarium seems to be the beautifully lit jellyfish display. This one was no exception with luminious jellies of every colour floating in their individual tanks.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqRI5ChBRtnNlv3vWaGXNZQihvFVjhlntI8I1_uTxijT-erEIc7ilhXreA9zc0FTLbuH7xlk6DEte4Mp2sUTvdMaC7PtbnLWAbSfby3t73wkg0ydZviea1X8KTO3KMAnwopy7EP8DiIwW/s1600-h/IMG_5954.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165737732653614818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvqRI5ChBRtnNlv3vWaGXNZQihvFVjhlntI8I1_uTxijT-erEIc7ilhXreA9zc0FTLbuH7xlk6DEte4Mp2sUTvdMaC7PtbnLWAbSfby3t73wkg0ydZviea1X8KTO3KMAnwopy7EP8DiIwW/s320/IMG_5954.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the aquarium, we rode the glass elevator up to the 62nd floor observation deck. Elevators make me nervous to begin with. This one had the added fear factor of being able to see all. the. way. down. All 600+ feet of it. Once on the skydeck, the walls of windows provided 360 degree views over the city of Seoul and the Han river, lit up like a Christmas Tree. There was also a section with a glass floor so one could look past one's feet all the way to the ground, some 62 stories below. It was terrifying. I did it twice. We finished out the trip with nachos overlooking the lights of the city. </p><p>It almost redeemed the rest of the day.</p>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-49243167261889006452008-02-10T09:25:00.000-08:002008-02-11T17:52:01.267-08:00Day 241 - War Tourism<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OLsuW30PkkAm0zbsCFTYzf5NyLbQZUPkv8AWSEbRZ2RjASB2BsrzsSsK_Nil-BaROhdAQXHgXRDU0CYVAOXigpAjDEoclws3ft6KIgOaXcY2OHLj2ew7qGlxH8EfxFJL0hbJLro0uo9g/s1600-h/IMG_5762.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165408686619133410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OLsuW30PkkAm0zbsCFTYzf5NyLbQZUPkv8AWSEbRZ2RjASB2BsrzsSsK_Nil-BaROhdAQXHgXRDU0CYVAOXigpAjDEoclws3ft6KIgOaXcY2OHLj2ew7qGlxH8EfxFJL0hbJLro0uo9g/s320/IMG_5762.JPG" border="0" /></a>According to US History books, the Korean War was finished 50 years ago. In Korea, however, it is not over, but rather in a state of suspended animation. The 2Km swath of the demilitarized zone (DMZ) stands as a constant reminder that North and South have not reached an agreement, merely the world's longest running cease-fire. On each side, soldiers stand ready to spring into action should either show even the slightest provocation.<br /><br />The result is one of the only divided countries in the world. And one of the world's strangest tourist attractions. Who would have thought that the symbol of war and division would be the top tourist attraction for both North and South. Yet visitors flock to see the Freedom Bridge, the 3rd Tunnel of Northern Agression, and to get a chance to peer into North Korea through telescopes. Those who are lucky enough to land a Panmunjeom tour actually may walk through the UN buildings and set foot in North Korea (unfortunately they were booked solid for the duration of our visit to Korea). Similar tours with similar itineraries run from the northern side.<br /><br />Both sides use these tours as a chance to play propaganda games. The South proclaims its peace and prosperity, reviling the North as barbaric agressors who starve their people and constantly threaten the South's peaceful way of life. The North on the other hand reviles the South as having loose morals, and of losing its Korean traditions as a slave to the capitalist West. Visitors to the DMZ must follow a strict dress code - no jeans, no t-shirts, no flip-flops, no shorts or miniskirts, etc. It's all a part of both sides' propaganda war. The North watches and photographs the tours coming through Panmunjeom, so the South wants, on one hand, the groups to project and air of prosperity, and on the other to prevent a scruffy Westerner from appearing on northern propaganda posters as symbol of South Korea's 'corruption by the West'.<br /><br />The dress code also has a more sinister purpose. Remember, this is a cease-fire, not a signed peace treaty, and both sides still have itchy trigger fingers. At any moment either side could turn the DMZ into a RE-MZ. Visitors are not alowed to gesture, wave, talk loudly, or in any way act in any manner that could be construed as provocative. Clothes and shoes worn to the DMZ should not hinder running away.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6MaT1WdLJTiGxXsT_UuWAcLxP2YNXViDJtCGqHR66RLlizWyQtsFC6k_pzlsNVrqeryQPo6PRZQ2VVI-3VhoHNJc3QpHJ7LQAPqk3ftDroFqy7mDG6_xSIYIMGcRd-rbs3wrtRQoMSMy/s1600-h/IMG_5761.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165408235647567314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6MaT1WdLJTiGxXsT_UuWAcLxP2YNXViDJtCGqHR66RLlizWyQtsFC6k_pzlsNVrqeryQPo6PRZQ2VVI-3VhoHNJc3QpHJ7LQAPqk3ftDroFqy7mDG6_xSIYIMGcRd-rbs3wrtRQoMSMy/s320/IMG_5761.JPG" border="0" /></a>Though we did not get to enter the DMZ we did see most of the major tourist attractions of the southern border. One of the most important duites of the oldest child is to care for thier aged parents, and when the parents die, to honour their sprits with 3 years of bi-monthly rituals. Furthermore, Lunar New Year, and Korean Thanksgiving are celebrated primarily by re-unification of families. Our first stop, Inminjeom Park, opened as a place where families divided by the war can come to honour their ancestors and relatives in the North. A stone monument faces the North, and families who cannot actually visit the homes and graves of their loved ones come here to lay flowers and make offerings of food and incense.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRedExSjNIrgXor_yLKgsUUFITiVYmA16dvRyt-lAZBq4wTW9mhEGgAzjTUwti3J6hD_peqrKqkH6KuVvBU2Wv1hRymK5aO2mVUy4RHHcSblO5nuIBwRmGU1Lq-ImcuW1LQJbhdxU7GIPw/s1600-h/IMG_5759.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165407797560903106" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRedExSjNIrgXor_yLKgsUUFITiVYmA16dvRyt-lAZBq4wTW9mhEGgAzjTUwti3J6hD_peqrKqkH6KuVvBU2Wv1hRymK5aO2mVUy4RHHcSblO5nuIBwRmGU1Lq-ImcuW1LQJbhdxU7GIPw/s320/IMG_5759.JPG" border="0" /></a>The park is also home to the Freedom Bridge, which was used to repatriate POW's from both sides of the Korean War. The South gave the POW's from the North the option to remain in South Korea, and many of them opted not to return. On the flip side, the North may not have released all of its POW's to the South. Some men are still missing, leaving families to wonder what happened to their loved ones. As of today the bridge terminates in a high fence topped in razor wire and festooned with prayer flags, mementoes, and wishes for the families on the other side.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4fPzpPypf4oSp1eOMq_uXxgyOupuCZqKd2r_Cc9qXu4wqsIy8ouHp48dDzRvF75Y6hABljCjksBUaPLXn3ayKfo8SgtYMFGdhttrGUiQN7FdctRUys6Ov6gzTWrUE-PJgykD9YeUUBGS/s1600-h/IMG_5781.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165408978676909554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix4fPzpPypf4oSp1eOMq_uXxgyOupuCZqKd2r_Cc9qXu4wqsIy8ouHp48dDzRvF75Y6hABljCjksBUaPLXn3ayKfo8SgtYMFGdhttrGUiQN7FdctRUys6Ov6gzTWrUE-PJgykD9YeUUBGS/s320/IMG_5781.JPG" border="0" /></a>Our next stop was the Third Tunnel of Northern Agression (or Infiltration - depending on your level of propaganda). Since the ceasefire was declared the North has made many atempts to infiltrate the South, both by submarine, and by tunnels under the rock. The discovery of four such tunnels have been made public knowlege, and the existence of dozens more is hinted at. When the third tunnel was discovered, the North smeared it with coal and claimed it was an abandoned coal mine. They also claimed that it had been dug by the South - a strange claim considering that its opening was on the northern side, and all the dynamite bores faced south. We apologize for the blurry picture, this taken at the termination point of the tunnel where the DMZ begins, but photography was strictly forbidden so Cz had to take this on the sly.<br /><br />This third tunnel has been made open to the public as a tourist venue, and also as a reminder to the South that the North is still dangerous and agressive. According to the South's line, the cease-fire has gone on so long that the South is getting soft, and needs to be reminded of the 'perfideousness' of the North. I suspect that there is also an element of covering from old embarassment. When North Korea invaded South Korea in 1950, its army did have superior numbers and equipment. However, the initial siege was aided in no small part because many of the South's border patrols and front lines had recently been granted short and long-term vacations, leaving the border practically unguarded.<br /><br />Next came the Dora Observatory where one can (heavily supervised by Royal Korean Army guards) look through telescopes across the 2km DMZ into North Korea. Through the scopes, one can watch a North Korean guard standing at his post on his respective tower, see the UN buildings at Panmunjeom, and the propaganda villages of both North and South. The propaganda villages came into being when the country was divided, it split an existing village in two. Each side built up their respective village as model for its country's prosperity. The South's half consists of a highly subsidised farming community growing rice and ginseng. The North's side is built up to look like a booming industrial town. A booming industrial town which has never been occupied, and whose factories have not turned out a single product. It does, however boast the world's tallest flagpole and the heaviest flag.<br /><br />Also visible form the Dora observatory is the Reunification bridge. Opened in approx 2000, the main bridge re-connects the highway of the South to the Highway of the North. Currently, it is only open to vehicles serving the reuinifaction industrial park, located in the North, and heavily subsidized by the South, but there is hope that it is a first step towards a re-unified Korea. As of today however, the pedestrian bridge joining it to the park, and either end of the highway bridge, terminate in high fences topped in razor wire and festooned with prayer flags, mementoes, and wishes for the families on the other side.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqRXo4ogF7KRmPuPTMOtTZxvCQ1p_zd4Xux6E_KOMApWCreyMDxwbBVLIKU47GnCT_6GvV1sVrLLRExWOD9TM9oryP2DjOpeHjFiRxG2O_6FmgXJ7ftfceH_8Y8LozPyQbKRhz2y4NQJm7/s1600-h/IMG_5793.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165409343749129730" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqRXo4ogF7KRmPuPTMOtTZxvCQ1p_zd4Xux6E_KOMApWCreyMDxwbBVLIKU47GnCT_6GvV1sVrLLRExWOD9TM9oryP2DjOpeHjFiRxG2O_6FmgXJ7ftfceH_8Y8LozPyQbKRhz2y4NQJm7/s320/IMG_5793.JPG" border="0" /></a>Finally, we stopped at Dorasan Station. Until 2002, this was the last station in South Korea. In 2002, the track was re-connected with North Korea, though, like the highway, it is curently only open to cargo trains serving the reunification industrial park. Supposedly plans are underway to open the line to passenger traffic as a gesture of unification for the Bejjing Olympics. Once the full length of the track is open, it will connect Korea with both the TransChina and TranSiberia rail lines, making it possible to ride from Western Europe, through Korea, and into Eastern China entirely by rail. It's a nice thought, though I have my doubts if it will be accomplished.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabWTVadwlDaeDF6c40FO_OyuJlbZnik7Gv4i3eohOGjNCRQ4h2IxmVqCjySqicPfWgXRFnDsMbu_3XZ9aJOyeCD1cjbUQWbEWnw2iu3ZuhReTlz0oCL9YQuqs-RP5OBNXeo6kyKLV4D1W/s1600-h/IMG_5799.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165409717411284498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabWTVadwlDaeDF6c40FO_OyuJlbZnik7Gv4i3eohOGjNCRQ4h2IxmVqCjySqicPfWgXRFnDsMbu_3XZ9aJOyeCD1cjbUQWbEWnw2iu3ZuhReTlz0oCL9YQuqs-RP5OBNXeo6kyKLV4D1W/s320/IMG_5799.JPG" border="0" /></a>Both sides play lip service to wanting re-unification, and I believe that many genuinely do want a re-unified country, and I beleive that reunification, or at least an open border, would be a good thing. Should there be re-unification, howwever, it will not be all sunshine and roses as the the South promises. Among other things, the North is devastated economically. Should re-unification happen, much of the burden of rebuilding would fall to the South, likely causing an economic crisis. And it is likely that the North would be unhappy about receiving the help. The countries have been divided long enough that there is a generation and a half of North Koreans who have been taught since infancy that capitalism is evil and that economic growth fueled by the South will take away their identity. Similarly the South has had its own fifity year propaganda campaign declaring North Koreans 'backward' and violent. I can't imagine that much prejudice can be erased easily with a simple tearing down of the fences.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0mEXld2E__g4LfgWTIFh1B7BFHLD_4aN_brhyh8ZngtoCWhCk22plnotD1gwpvKLLS-hdPZE9HEX8fBcsB1jzSuGmSyb85-CYjYnh23hIL77CHuoy7Ms28yuCJlWIue1vjFyWrhAGCSd/s1600-h/IMG_5803.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165409979404289570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0mEXld2E__g4LfgWTIFh1B7BFHLD_4aN_brhyh8ZngtoCWhCk22plnotD1gwpvKLLS-hdPZE9HEX8fBcsB1jzSuGmSyb85-CYjYnh23hIL77CHuoy7Ms28yuCJlWIue1vjFyWrhAGCSd/s320/IMG_5803.JPG" border="0" /></a>All along the highway to and from the DMZ sights, the dividing fence bordered the highway. Just on the other side lay the DMZ and border. It was a 50km reminder of the country's division. The fences runs the entire breadth of Korea, maintaining a minimum 4km distance between them. This 2km-wide no man's land has remained untouched for over 50 years and covers seacoast, wetland, and mountains, making it, in essence, the most heavily fortified nature preserve in the world. Species long driven extinct in other regions maintain populations within the DMZ. On the one hand, the trees, birds, and butterflies living there can be construed a symbol of hope and of peace. Should reunification happen, both sides agree that the former DMZ should be maintained as a nature preserve. On the other hand, it is a reminder of the brutality of both sides of the conflict. It is a refuge only for only animals under a certain weight. Any species larger than a fox has long since been driven out or killed by the blanket of landmines that still pock the area.<br /><br />On returning to Seoul, the bus passed the War Memorial Museum. In keeping with the day (and having heard it was one of the not-to-be-missed museums of Seoul, we decided to pay a visit. Inside, comprehensive exhibits chronicle the history of Korean involvement in warfare around the world, with focus on early warfare, the UN, and the Korean and Vietnam Wars. What struck me most was that ever since people invented national or territory boundries, there has never been world peace. Ever. Every year, without exception, there has been some conflict, somewhere, in the world. Sometimes the war is civil, sometimes international, sometimes it is listed simply as a 'skirmish' or 'unrest', conflict, in varying degrees, is constant.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFf-kPiMtMgX44VFmeaVQ1ZW9T4kYEhNA-fvhdA9w_iVtJBh2V-JnnD1kAe9L1rreiUYiHvVXRvZb69YKLjZKfb-ozXv36HFao7L6x2ucnmLHQY5mmS-01OrCS74BBr3_wkf-_4X-2OzF/s1600-h/IMG_5838.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165410735318533698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFf-kPiMtMgX44VFmeaVQ1ZW9T4kYEhNA-fvhdA9w_iVtJBh2V-JnnD1kAe9L1rreiUYiHvVXRvZb69YKLjZKfb-ozXv36HFao7L6x2ucnmLHQY5mmS-01OrCS74BBr3_wkf-_4X-2OzF/s320/IMG_5838.JPG" border="0" /></a>Some choice exhibits included the UN wing of the Korean War. I had no idea so many countries were involved, and how extensively. Over 2 large rooms, mannequins representing the different uniforms of each country stood next to models of their respective monuments erected all over Korea and placards detailing their involvement in the conflict. In the center of the room a giant tear contructed of dog tags and wrapped in barbed wire hung suspended from the UN seal. It represented a mourning for the losses of war, and a hope for peace. Several such monuments, illustrating hope for re-unification, or of world peace dotted the museum and grounds. For a war museum, there were a surprising number of monuments to peace.<br /><br />The peace monuments are a positive example of Soputh Korea's propaganda campaign. On the other hand, every exhibit has a strong nationalistic bent. In each document of a battle whenever the South Korean army is pushed back, it is called 'A Strategic Retreat'. Whenever the other guy gets pushed back, he 'runs away'.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dwQLtcsXVcWE9L1jJj6BrAcHg2FZmMVjwp21dVPHNqqc2BCn_Tb3K2TI8j9j3_NZSF7nJaMwEtrdRC1DBfFIYKpBIAU1CWnn40jJEY8iAs0ES5DbJdVqR3jdgDCrHunOzQ48OxKdWlMO/s1600-h/IMG_5829.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165410361656378930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dwQLtcsXVcWE9L1jJj6BrAcHg2FZmMVjwp21dVPHNqqc2BCn_Tb3K2TI8j9j3_NZSF7nJaMwEtrdRC1DBfFIYKpBIAU1CWnn40jJEY8iAs0ES5DbJdVqR3jdgDCrHunOzQ48OxKdWlMO/s320/IMG_5829.JPG" border="0" /></a>The central hall of the history wing was dominated by one of Admiral Yi's 'Turtle ships'. Admiral Yi has the most successful record of any naval captain, having defeated a Japanese fleet of over 300 with only 13 of his turtle boats. The small ironclad boats were far more maneuverable than the massive Japanese boats, and furthermore, they could shoot in all directions simultaneously. Admiral Yi would navigate his little ships into the middle of a cluster of Japanese boats, and then open fire, decimating them.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW55mEzb-JifeHZ-uG8nycd778kDKXguRq9MRPB08GKM7VsciifYWQxccuZkbU_FsFQFiVwx28Ut472VAJZcBgO-yh7giVhSWl0TAhKEnoJ4I_u7x2zJt8dPe1mgHziFMBxGCBxlWmVojy/s1600-h/IMG_5849.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165411199175001682" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW55mEzb-JifeHZ-uG8nycd778kDKXguRq9MRPB08GKM7VsciifYWQxccuZkbU_FsFQFiVwx28Ut472VAJZcBgO-yh7giVhSWl0TAhKEnoJ4I_u7x2zJt8dPe1mgHziFMBxGCBxlWmVojy/s320/IMG_5849.JPG" border="0" /></a>Popular with kids, big and little, was the wing filled with North Korean war machines. Nearly every vehicle had a set of steps leading up to it, so one could climb in and out of the driver's seat. It was almost as much fun as the bronze stegasaurus outside the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.<br /><br />As we left the museum, the sun was setting behind a statue of two brothers, North and South, embracing. I hope someday in the future it is more than just a hope.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgApB82aK5cFUGCrL2H2IKoHZcGt9At983RyUKE1VqbZoujQEF6NIKdGjIoyxE21P9-07xAw6tvXl5YtJufo-AIZx1LfwosfueogmY1gXK8msFnURiC0HWAWX5Nl2DKVxdr-sXEGfcgxLxR/s1600-h/IMG_5850.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165411611491862114" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgApB82aK5cFUGCrL2H2IKoHZcGt9At983RyUKE1VqbZoujQEF6NIKdGjIoyxE21P9-07xAw6tvXl5YtJufo-AIZx1LfwosfueogmY1gXK8msFnURiC0HWAWX5Nl2DKVxdr-sXEGfcgxLxR/s320/IMG_5850.JPG" border="0" /></a>After our big day of war tourism, we decided to have a nice dinner. Yesterday I found a little back street packed with tiny restaurants. Surprisingly, I was able to retrace my steps to a traditional Korean barbeque joint with floor seating, and individual grills on each table. We were the only non-Koreans there, but the menu had pictures, and the waitress spoke a smidge of English, so there were no surprises, which though less exciting, did mean that we were guaranteed a delicious meal.<br /><br />After dinner, we queued up for the most popular street treat, a kind of donut filled with cinnamon syrup and nuts. Keeping with the theme of the day, we then went across the street to the arcade to shoot zombies. Afterwards, we stopped for tea in an adorable tea shop designed to feel like an old-fashioned rail car.<br /><br />Finally, we decided to indulge in a form of nightlife particular to Korea - the DVD Bang. For about the price of a movie ticket, one gets a DVD and little room with a couch and large-screen projector TV. Throw in popcorn and drinks for a few extra won, and you have your own private theatre experience. We opted for Curse of the Golden Flower, though not Korean, it was at least Asian, and neither of us had seen it yet.<br /><br />We finally returned to the guesthouse at about 2AM, having been out since 7:30AM. It was a thoroughly satisfying day.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-43824700159891285662008-02-09T01:33:00.000-08:002008-02-09T07:45:08.932-08:00Day 240 - I May Need to Rename this BlogIt's day 240 of <em>Around the World in 240 Days</em>, and we're still halfway around the world. We will be in South Korea until Feb 12, and have decided to continue the blog until we are all the way back in VA (chronicling our visit to Seattle and our quest for a home in NYC) to make it a full circle.<br /><br />Seoul is an excellent last stop abroad. The climate and atmosphere are all New York, but it is still undeniably foreign. There is a sense of history and of pride in history much stronger than anywhere else we have visted. I think this in part simply because there is so much history - South Korea has had civilization pretty much since civilization was invented - and in part cultural - In no other country we have stopped in are ancestors and tradition as revered as they are here.<br /><br />This manifests in strange ways. Part of the culture of traditon is a culture of repect and integrity, resulting in Seoul being one of the safest cities in the world - statistically more than twice as safe as NY. I sort of took feeling safe here for granted and let it slip out of conscious thought until I noticed that the subway cars have luggage racks. And people were using them for everything from innocuous boxes to very clearly laptop computer bags. And the owners were actually napping on the seats below. <em>Sleeping</em>. I can't imagine falling asleep on a NY subway, let alone while my laptop sits unlocked and in plain view on a shelf over my head. But here, no one even blinked, no one's stuff was stolen, and the subway system is just as extensive, and nearly as busy as the one in NY.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgIx1UAKdFrYinozc3AkhtAkGWhTqwoqttgqQrZrzuSBb1MfLUt20kk9h7cJxI2wHulzIDGI_wU3JjkJh6po6uxKLtevjpHl3gRZNVXTDbMHegLVod_WSTk1iyq9fNthxu5TldhkgEe53/s1600-h/IMG_5741.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164915615783617906" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgIx1UAKdFrYinozc3AkhtAkGWhTqwoqttgqQrZrzuSBb1MfLUt20kk9h7cJxI2wHulzIDGI_wU3JjkJh6po6uxKLtevjpHl3gRZNVXTDbMHegLVod_WSTk1iyq9fNthxu5TldhkgEe53/s320/IMG_5741.JPG" border="0" /></a>Lunar New Year has passed, which means that all the museums are finally open. Today we went first to the Seolodang Prison Museum, which we had tried to visit on Thursday. It is a complex of buildings designed to torture and detain Koreans who dared to oppose Japanese rule 1910-1945. The prison was originally constructed to house only 500 inmates, but at times it could be crammed with over 3000.<br /><br />The museum is clearly intended to detail the atrocities of the Japanese towards the occupied Koreans. Cell blocks are restored to give vistors an impression of what life here might have been like. Everything is carefully oraganised. Long grey corridors with overhead catwalks fan out from a central point with overhead to allow ease in controlling prisoners. Rooms decked out with vaguely cheesy mannequins graphically illustrate the tortures endured by prisoners nearly nonstop.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHzvYRPftLsE2LNTcghFK7qxkuB2_vEmknv24EMDzGuQ3_v4KE7lib5Bl8wppUwR-Iete1rwEQbt-M3Qz-SGM-gWBhWQEwBaezXYL3nZdsfz9YIx6QpOTNNyvLhQyfmGd3y6keae0cL0Y/s1600-h/IMG_5743.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164916006625641858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHzvYRPftLsE2LNTcghFK7qxkuB2_vEmknv24EMDzGuQ3_v4KE7lib5Bl8wppUwR-Iete1rwEQbt-M3Qz-SGM-gWBhWQEwBaezXYL3nZdsfz9YIx6QpOTNNyvLhQyfmGd3y6keae0cL0Y/s320/IMG_5743.JPG" border="0" /></a>Perhaps most powerful is the execution room, a simple wooden structure behind a 2m stone fence. The inside is set up like a small theatre house with the condemned on a stool behind a procenium complete with curtains, and the officials seated in rows on risers. When the lever was pulled, the stool dropped, and the prisoner hanged. Behind the building a set of stairs lead to the basement so a guard can secretly go down to make sure he is dead. After that, the body is whisked away via secret tunnels to a public cemetery.<br /><br />More than the brutality, what struck me most in the exhibits was reverence in which the rebels are held. In every dsplay, they are referred to as 'our noble ancestor' , 'our patriotic ancestor' or even 'our revered ancestor' . I believe it is partly the cultural respect for ancestors mentioned above, and partly national pride/propaganda.<br /><br />The other thought that struck me was that once again how history is written by whomever is currently in power. No doubt, the Japanese occupation was wrong, thousands of people wrongly imprisoned, and unspeakable violence done. The prison and the history books make that clear. That said, one of the displays was a diorama of a Korean village in which holographic figures act out scenes from the occupation. In one, a Korean scholar lobs a molotav coctail into a trio of Japanese, killing all three. Surely, had the rebellion failed, there would be a very different museum in place hailing the strong rule of the Japanese against the Korean 'terrorists'.<br /><br />From the prison, we had a banquet of museums from which to choose. We opted for the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Once again we got more than we bargained for. The directions to the museum simply state "take subway line 5 to Grand Park". Grand park, is in fact, a huge park complex comprising not just our museum, but a zoo, a science center, an amusement park, and a park as we think of them (grass, trees, ponds, etc). It was so huge that we opted to use the park's tram system rather than walk the 30 minutes across the park in the cold.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkI_94-9Wa1jx10w2GADDZvGIUyOc6Bg-DPzuLyi6g13Oj-ikdrosV0R66ToagK-HOFwi8QSE_G2NCz3rsQaAJmHNiClIBhB7WFMgLdGL8uvsp6ZKfADUUamtQTF0QqLe3Pl2wYyM0Vcm/s1600-h/IMG_5756.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164916741065049522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkI_94-9Wa1jx10w2GADDZvGIUyOc6Bg-DPzuLyi6g13Oj-ikdrosV0R66ToagK-HOFwi8QSE_G2NCz3rsQaAJmHNiClIBhB7WFMgLdGL8uvsp6ZKfADUUamtQTF0QqLe3Pl2wYyM0Vcm/s320/IMG_5756.JPG" border="0" /></a>Once we arrived at the museum we were in for another lucky surprise. The 2nd Saturday of every month the museum is totally free! The museum is housed in a 3-storey open-plan building. The review in the guidebook called it dissapointing, saying that there was too much unused space. Personally I prefer museum to give the art a little 'breathing room'.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnJco63ZdxB6D6bXZm3P8ktS9xBqojEudTdPUIvu38PH7XRwKNAEJMa_piVdoWPz3Da0XtMhGpa5sNjdzzjZqCR03TW2WV24glPCDtcSrzOAz7njlGHY1sTuV93JzZwZxmzmyBKv2neAhJ/s1600-h/IMG_5744.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164916247143810450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnJco63ZdxB6D6bXZm3P8ktS9xBqojEudTdPUIvu38PH7XRwKNAEJMa_piVdoWPz3Da0XtMhGpa5sNjdzzjZqCR03TW2WV24glPCDtcSrzOAz7njlGHY1sTuV93JzZwZxmzmyBKv2neAhJ/s320/IMG_5744.JPG" border="0" /></a>We whiled away the rest of the afternoon getting an overview of 20th century Korean art. In many ways it did not seem to differ too much from American modern art. Perhaps this is a mistaken conception, as most modern art galleries in the US display works from around the globe, but I suspect that it has more to do with the transfer of information. Before the 20th century, communication was slow and though extensive in its reach (global trade, and hence global communication is not a new idea), it was very limited in scope. By the 20th century, however, communication had become fast and widepread. As a result ideas flowed back and forth across continents and cultures, resulting in a much more homogeonised art scene. That's my theory anyway.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSPj0By18Ka6b9Q-M_5Vl1zzKsrpUKiWPaITF8-rxIkLY4YxRIETVL2AvetIVMjmZ_V8iUBI-YrnyY9b0nlg0Xha1Lkz5jyf_gZm5qIPunQwf3vaCm_lPy2KlX2Nck-QsLMjy6uG5EDv2/s1600-h/IMG_5747.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164916470482109858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSPj0By18Ka6b9Q-M_5Vl1zzKsrpUKiWPaITF8-rxIkLY4YxRIETVL2AvetIVMjmZ_V8iUBI-YrnyY9b0nlg0Xha1Lkz5jyf_gZm5qIPunQwf3vaCm_lPy2KlX2Nck-QsLMjy6uG5EDv2/s320/IMG_5747.JPG" border="0" /></a>The art museum was a good ride away from home, and as the temperature dropped with the setting of the sun, we were very grateful for the heated subway seats. The MTA could take a clue here!jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-14655726475865283352008-02-08T00:35:00.000-08:002008-02-08T07:48:48.364-08:00Day 239 - SNOW!!!!!!IT'SSNOWINGIT'SSNOWINGIT'SSNOWING!!!!!!!! Only flurries, but still, fluffy white bits tumbling out of a cloud-dark sky. I love snow, and this is my first snow in over a year. SNOW!!!!....And two days ago we were in t-shirts and shorts fighting off mosquitoes.<br /><br />But that's just this evening. Once we shook off the two hour jet lag, we had a culture-filled day.<br /><br />One of the plays we designed at UW was Oh Tae Sok's <em>Intimacy Between Father and Son</em>. The play is based on real events which took place in the 18th century during the Choson (Jeoson/ Joson) Dynasty. Documentation of the events ranges from royal papers supporting the king, to the published memoirs of the widow of the son he murdered, and none is even remotely unbiased. The tangled interpersonal relationships within the 18th century court mirror the complicated relationship of North and South Korea, and in fact, the original 1970's production made use of these parallels. All of this would have been valuable information on the project, yet most keys to discovering it remain firmly locked in-country.<br /><br />Over the centuries, Korea had been invaded, occupied and torn apart. Victors and the powerful write the history books, dooming Korea to a fragmentory shadow in most Westerners' minds. For that show, most of us spent hours combing every library on campus, and coming up with a wealth of images from Japan and China, but virtually nothing from Korea. We have been lucky to uncover some of it in our short time here, but I feel that the full complexity of the play cannot be understood without 3000 years of history and a DMZ at the back door.<br /><br />Being in South Korea is an interesting experience. There are hoardes of tourists, but mostly from Japan or other parts of Korea. We have seen very few Westerners at all, and of the few we have talked to, most, like us, did not initially plan on coming here. It almost feels like a forbidden kingdom, an unknown place, even though its doors have been open longer than most of the other countries we have visted over the past months.<br /><div><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXqsDd8OwNQtG3ycojVCYQDsfOvPull52IAauAshqWTNQcPmZguVT9AVJ-YmhI_S5GifnuxXlZdX4p783bEUP16dv_ovmXOUgnj0fGl0fOyb_y9uy1K9jLydfFA6N5vW4vKtxIg9W7xUPQ/s1600-h/IMG_5691.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164529407358762946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXqsDd8OwNQtG3ycojVCYQDsfOvPull52IAauAshqWTNQcPmZguVT9AVJ-YmhI_S5GifnuxXlZdX4p783bEUP16dv_ovmXOUgnj0fGl0fOyb_y9uy1K9jLydfFA6N5vW4vKtxIg9W7xUPQ/s320/IMG_5691.JPG" border="0" /></a>South Korea is rarely on the front pages, but it is an economic powerhouse, boasting the 34th highest GDP per capita in the world. Among all the modern wealth and bustle, there remains a palpable sense of the past. Ancient palaces and temples rub shoulders with modern high-rise buildings. Rituals and relics of its agrarian past are carefully preserved in courtyards alongside highways teeming with modern SUV's. And lurking behind it all is the memory of repeated invasions by China and Japan, and the ever present shadow of the DMZ and the armies of the North sitting just 60Km from Seoul.</p><p>Today we visted Gyeobungkun Palace. As we left our guesthouse, we heard drumming and other music coming from a courtyard nearby. The gate was open, and we were greeted by a group of musicians, and scattered clumps of people trying on traditional Korean dress, and playing traditional games from the countryside. We assumed the merriment was to celebrate the new year (this assumption ws later confiremed at the folk museum - these sorts of games have been played every New Year for at least 1500 years).</p><p>As we walked, we passed a restaurant wth pictures of the food in the wndow. In a country that doesn't use the Roman alphabet, and in which English not widely spoken, a pictorial menu is a great invention. We each pointed to dishes what looked tasty, and were pleasantly surprised when the meals that appeared actually looked nicer than the pictures. We've never had that happen before!</p><p>By the time we finished lunch, we were too late to catch the tour of the palace complex nearest our guesthouse (which I just discovered is where the historical events of the play actually happened), but instead opted to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest palace in Seoul. In addition to the Josen buildings, the complex also houses several museums dedicated to preserving Korean art and culture. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TfSBB48nObwLhDpoAoPGCg6l_jkBSYOFoZrYvRWsEfv0HTGm9w2ndMzfO0Fm5yh2GOXTHs1pAY0yN6gqX2IgIHzdsXkbtdhtNfLQUP4YJEkKurykCEMSdSonrW1KgUjAxTqxgEN2pbYv/s1600-h/IMG_5698.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164529656466866130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TfSBB48nObwLhDpoAoPGCg6l_jkBSYOFoZrYvRWsEfv0HTGm9w2ndMzfO0Fm5yh2GOXTHs1pAY0yN6gqX2IgIHzdsXkbtdhtNfLQUP4YJEkKurykCEMSdSonrW1KgUjAxTqxgEN2pbYv/s320/IMG_5698.JPG" border="0" /></a>We arrived right at 2PM, just in time to watch the changing of the guard. Like the beefeaters in front of Buckingham, the Korean palace guards never change expression as they stand before the palace. The changing of the guard involved all the usual pomp and ceremony, including a large drum, exchanging of secret passwords and identity cards, and salutes with swords. For one moment before the crowd surged forward to begin their palace tours, the guards appeared to stand alone and at attention before the massive gate.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRnrwgDtgnn1HEqup3WtigtXJzJkIAurBSBZem5N_d841zylNt1Te1uSxFu6RpQ8tNNQSOhcjEynTKgEvdX1YutZVaWGiISe1q8Fbg0u5GPby9ioR3Gy7jJFF24KhVYSSOkXbWYynXb2a7/s1600-h/IMG_5705.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164529927049805794" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRnrwgDtgnn1HEqup3WtigtXJzJkIAurBSBZem5N_d841zylNt1Te1uSxFu6RpQ8tNNQSOhcjEynTKgEvdX1YutZVaWGiISe1q8Fbg0u5GPby9ioR3Gy7jJFF24KhVYSSOkXbWYynXb2a7/s320/IMG_5705.JPG" border="0" /></a>The architecture inside the complex mirrored that of the outer wall and gate. Graceful curved roofs with elaborately painted eaves shelters austere rooms with minimal furnishing. Most traditional Korean homes are heated through ondol, or under-floor heating systems. As a result, life is lived near to the ground, with no need for the glut of furniture found in European palaces.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69oXJ2EaPctUZM7wCIOyNp9ZXSbVifGVIK926HhpgP8cqkKov7uRNaHRRvXJJdfhlwvuX3j5cIT7LnFF9tDk-uc8xB5iG6mutHv0uMRkoMx6naEC51TGkNREyCrjGPbmXMhDcsPm-O7Bp/s1600-h/IMG_5726.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164531395928621074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69oXJ2EaPctUZM7wCIOyNp9ZXSbVifGVIK926HhpgP8cqkKov7uRNaHRRvXJJdfhlwvuX3j5cIT7LnFF9tDk-uc8xB5iG6mutHv0uMRkoMx6naEC51TGkNREyCrjGPbmXMhDcsPm-O7Bp/s320/IMG_5726.JPG" border="0" /></a>The finest of the museums was the Museum of Folk Culture. Our experience was greatly enhanced by an enthusiastic English interpreter/curator/volunteer guide who walked us through each exhibit. Through him, we learned that not only is kimchi a tasty snack, but that it is internationally recognised as one the 5 healthiest foods in the world. In previous centuries, Koreans would ferment huge vats of kimchi underground. Today, most Seoulites live in apartments, but they still make their own kimchi, and have even invented a special kind of refrigerator just for that purpose!</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHr3D6bYGj-5PuJ6f9VS2tZc91MHaz0gRAryMs5EgfSRC039CMImprzqMzymFJJWcxWtmlHBty4kZPAMDi1vTj-9FAuIswC4ZEwt7DZUtqL2o3TMsf-vxsGO0nLVNgLmifXK63RaP6lsiY/s1600-h/IMG_5723.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164531009381564418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHr3D6bYGj-5PuJ6f9VS2tZc91MHaz0gRAryMs5EgfSRC039CMImprzqMzymFJJWcxWtmlHBty4kZPAMDi1vTj-9FAuIswC4ZEwt7DZUtqL2o3TMsf-vxsGO0nLVNgLmifXK63RaP6lsiY/s320/IMG_5723.JPG" border="0" /></a>In the rural village part of the museum, he explained the symbolism and reasons behind everything from the village totem poles to the layouts of the houses. Had he not been there we would not have learned half as much as we did. There were placards explaining some things, but nothing so good as a some one who really knows and loves the meanings and histories of things walking you through them step-by-step.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJLEBRGiPTUGgkx1Uk6FSpWj9-OBKHqqQi7DdLzaa7eyVKKQ88u0ESL9eNB8iwqasreYQRXzAyWJF0r-kprJACM5kP3wutO_AmRAfCTEBfYcJ_PGoKMtZ337_O2hsFbfGPlQYlO8uoogw/s1600-h/IMG_5719.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164530433855946738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJLEBRGiPTUGgkx1Uk6FSpWj9-OBKHqqQi7DdLzaa7eyVKKQ88u0ESL9eNB8iwqasreYQRXzAyWJF0r-kprJACM5kP3wutO_AmRAfCTEBfYcJ_PGoKMtZ337_O2hsFbfGPlQYlO8uoogw/s320/IMG_5719.JPG" border="0" /></a>I was especially excited about the costume exhibits. Most of the garments represtented different classes and professions from the Choson dynasty. If we did <em>Intimacy Between Father and Son</em> again, I could design the hell out of it!</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3tY8R7m61HTgKbk4L5YYsEpuRaIiJHocxpKPRaE-BhtCyePW2QYYxOe1kqB421fcAnZftEzgQIw8JXOh11x9d5dOi9KnwgLtuO9twxMxVAdsJQSjGDNhiIYpKFde_KeBlh2IDcn8fcAR/s1600-h/IMG_5727.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164610440506736674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3tY8R7m61HTgKbk4L5YYsEpuRaIiJHocxpKPRaE-BhtCyePW2QYYxOe1kqB421fcAnZftEzgQIw8JXOh11x9d5dOi9KnwgLtuO9twxMxVAdsJQSjGDNhiIYpKFde_KeBlh2IDcn8fcAR/s320/IMG_5727.JPG" border="0" /></a>This evening we ventured out to find winter woolies for Cz. As noted in the title of the post, while we were eating dinner, it began to SNOW. Cz was made doubly happy that we found a woolie hat, sweater, and scarf with minimal hunting.</p><p>As we walked the market and tucked into our pizza dinner, we were struck by the similarities between Seoul and NYC. Not just the weather, but the skyscrapers, the lights, even the extremely fashionably dressed couples breezing past in their identical black coats. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvn6bdq-8R8eA62LdT5iSc_t3ebPVwxdxJF8u7-hxeunZPTf44_BcSn3o70h_FsmYYTvniPJVVWNj1mf6n_EJHLdpuqepP-mxQKty2tmupxjxP7fsuHB6GnyPIE1lqPAFq23KRUXibSky0/s1600-h/IMG_5730.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164611119111569458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvn6bdq-8R8eA62LdT5iSc_t3ebPVwxdxJF8u7-hxeunZPTf44_BcSn3o70h_FsmYYTvniPJVVWNj1mf6n_EJHLdpuqepP-mxQKty2tmupxjxP7fsuHB6GnyPIE1lqPAFq23KRUXibSky0/s320/IMG_5730.JPG" border="0" /></a>In other ways, Seoul reminds me of Europe. Just as 10th century cathedrals loom over modern city blocks in England and France, in Seoul, 13th century belltowers surprise in the shadow of ultra-modern skyscrapers. We took these pictures from the same street corner in our neighborhood. In one direction, a tiny park with a belltower from the 14th century, in another, the Jongho Tower, a monument to modern consumerism.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaoToOm28c2h2Vn9wrnA2CHVlKMVf9xgu6uFHINUBPQ0gKc4E_0IjUZMDk41Zl_pUF_Iuh2UI6_xfomB9kQlMOaLiSbIbA57gCnhHrylxVvDcP26M96GngoqXuIrNY2_aT9vaUxlQaqH_j/s1600-h/IMG_5733.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164611402579411010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaoToOm28c2h2Vn9wrnA2CHVlKMVf9xgu6uFHINUBPQ0gKc4E_0IjUZMDk41Zl_pUF_Iuh2UI6_xfomB9kQlMOaLiSbIbA57gCnhHrylxVvDcP26M96GngoqXuIrNY2_aT9vaUxlQaqH_j/s320/IMG_5733.JPG" border="0" /></a>We have only been in Seoul 2 days, and are already feeling easy and comfortable because it is so like NYC, but at the same time bowled over by the sudden influx of history we never knew. Be prepared for more long-winded history and politics laden posts. I won't be offended if you just look at the pretty pictures.</p></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-72412454443024821222008-02-07T19:56:00.000-08:002008-02-07T19:41:50.465-08:00Day 238 - Seoul of Asia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIEsKHdXVzsiAiIgAOq3m7cfG-3pcD3k89sXf-pyK0SPqHERALe6rO5gZT1ovxmnyJ4OILyGY5id9GYugJ6Rv-pl5kLecFoifNTgygzcl8yexS0F7o65rPuVIzLZnPJ2BTHw5eWLmqUfH/s1600-h/IMG_5594.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164082704990175074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIEsKHdXVzsiAiIgAOq3m7cfG-3pcD3k89sXf-pyK0SPqHERALe6rO5gZT1ovxmnyJ4OILyGY5id9GYugJ6Rv-pl5kLecFoifNTgygzcl8yexS0F7o65rPuVIzLZnPJ2BTHw5eWLmqUfH/s320/IMG_5594.JPG" border="0" /></a>We left Bangkok in nighttime temperatures of over 30C. We arrived in South Korea to a daytime temperature of -7C. South indeed. I could gripe, but to be honest, I have missed the seasons. It was sort of exhilarating to step off the plane and to feel the cold radiating through the glass of the arrival tunnel. Also because of the cold, despite being a major city with all the attendant traffic, the air is remarkably crisp and fresh-smelling.<br /><br />After checking into our hostel, our first order of business was to find some lunch. Being Lunar New Year, the restaurant we had planned to visit was closed (along with everything else on its block). We opted instead to go down a promising alley with many signs, selecting a place that claimed on its door 'English Menu". I may need to have some words with Korean restauranteurs on honesty in advertising. There was no English menu. There was no menu. There was no English. Period. Somehow through hand gestures and the collective help of half the other patrons, we found ourselves with bowls of Bibimpap, which we thought only came with beef. Apparently not. This was a salad and tuna sushi affair atop a bed of rice with about 5 different sides. The owners were apparently tickled with our complete ineptitude, and saw to it that we mixed our condiments properly, and even brought us a big bowl of house specialty soup - on the house. We couldn't understand a word of what each other was saying, but it was an entirely enjoyable experience. We will study up the Korean phrasebook section of our Lonely Planet and actually try to order something tomorrow. As we were leaving I saw two young men recieving grilled herring with an entourage of mysterious small bowls. A goal for tomorrow...<br /><br />In Thailand, Seoul is currently running an ad campaign that goes "Visit Seoul, Soul of Asia". Indeed, it is a neat city. The people here are all phenominally well-dressed. Everyone seems to be slim and beautiful, even bundled up in winter layers. No parkas here - only designer coats and hugely expensive shoes. And everyone wears black or grey. It's really not that far removed from the more posh neighborhoods of NY.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5annHd5nX5mPR73xQyt4eyUMUJI42QjI22qyVcMl4acFEE8f18uZW6f-YBFxWMez8k3lPX8NS_i1d50O6oUnObiMxxR53xHYm4aDrvpxPVPFQg517f2cAbrCS2t5zQ53txnuZhkb_VY4/s1600-h/IMG_5597.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164208830999789426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5annHd5nX5mPR73xQyt4eyUMUJI42QjI22qyVcMl4acFEE8f18uZW6f-YBFxWMez8k3lPX8NS_i1d50O6oUnObiMxxR53xHYm4aDrvpxPVPFQg517f2cAbrCS2t5zQ53txnuZhkb_VY4/s320/IMG_5597.JPG" border="0" /></a>One of the city's best features is the abundance of public art. Every high-rise built after a certain date (I believe late-seventies, but I could be mistaken) is required to have a sculpture in front. The results are sometimes interesting, often easily missed, and occasionally quite charming. This giant traditional ink brush in the summer actually has a flow of water running from its bristles through the 'brushstroke'. Now it is dry, though I think it would make a splendid mini ice rink.<br /><br />We had planned on visiting the Prison Museum today, as it only has English-speaking guides on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Unfortunately, it was closed for Lunar New Year. As we eventually devised most of the museums in town would be. So we revised our plan.<br /><br />We instead headed for the Coex Aquarium, only one part of a massive (as in over a kilometer long) underground mall. And we were in luck - not only was the aquarium open, but they were offering a hefty discount on the tickets. We wiled away the afternoon in warm indoor comfort admiring the fishes and oddities.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieYiOFD-lu75V5BnxqKSAuwyVg7_JfwDjp3Bdbgm6mljgk1UgVT9S_UVFJ7v29VdOa2NWzuoG2RCv5lRKmEgC75LoER3tfjUpzabbASl54gUQT-KQuCdkqvGD6Tu9hyphenhyphen7cuvz0CMGr8IdYo/s1600-h/IMG_5608.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164209144532402050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieYiOFD-lu75V5BnxqKSAuwyVg7_JfwDjp3Bdbgm6mljgk1UgVT9S_UVFJ7v29VdOa2NWzuoG2RCv5lRKmEgC75LoER3tfjUpzabbASl54gUQT-KQuCdkqvGD6Tu9hyphenhyphen7cuvz0CMGr8IdYo/s320/IMG_5608.JPG" border="0" /></a>One room was dedicated entirely to 'Liberating fish from the bowl'. Epspecially clever was the computer whose tropical reef screensaver served as the backround for a school of real tropical fish. There was also a washing machine full of mollies, a refrigerator whose crispers were swimming with goldfish, televisions with screens full of fish, and a traffic signal with a siamese fighting fish in each light.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7PNYqhz0oYl2aOQJ3gosGxPxnDprJUX8ZmQsiMKRlwbVLzwyaYMB9LmS5WnQ3gBTypcglYkwDglu8EpmAoKk2hl5idcByndC8X37nQpkGJizcLcg4o5lwbpOHUDLQgvlK6SSBPZ7_3suR/s1600-h/IMG_5662.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164209681403314082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7PNYqhz0oYl2aOQJ3gosGxPxnDprJUX8ZmQsiMKRlwbVLzwyaYMB9LmS5WnQ3gBTypcglYkwDglu8EpmAoKk2hl5idcByndC8X37nQpkGJizcLcg4o5lwbpOHUDLQgvlK6SSBPZ7_3suR/s320/IMG_5662.JPG" border="0" /></a>In a much larger (and more naturalistic) display, huge morey eels gaped, while sharks and rays glided by. Several of the rays seemed quite sociable coming right up to the glass and seeming to smile and wave.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVK2mno-7QdChscvE4KXIN0SESdUrlUPkFDqR5bAKzqcp3SItro1jsLi3fKsz3fnpBphN_XXP3vBATpD_fElFxhJQj6a4fe0cqN8jNOsEGmEqYPBHZspBApVMNZ5w9_54Osz85R9ebBhH/s1600-h/IMG_5638.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164209415115341714" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVK2mno-7QdChscvE4KXIN0SESdUrlUPkFDqR5bAKzqcp3SItro1jsLi3fKsz3fnpBphN_XXP3vBATpD_fElFxhJQj6a4fe0cqN8jNOsEGmEqYPBHZspBApVMNZ5w9_54Osz85R9ebBhH/s320/IMG_5638.JPG" border="0" /></a>And no aquarium would be complete without the sideshow oddity. In this case, a two-headed turtle, living in apparent comfort in his own private wing of a pond filled with his more conventionally-domed brethren.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoO1p-TmPyz19JuQB5Nh0Ku5LIznH8TWncbX3u2VPXcOGNmZen9eFhiFOQleXpSPr4fPPCnMZiUbFoox8x6Nlc0j8yV6Msc9HUPHuTfCvjAV-xq6hwBMXYO_npKO6EeU0p1NHJu9rbacjc/s1600-h/IMG_5673.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164210059360436146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoO1p-TmPyz19JuQB5Nh0Ku5LIznH8TWncbX3u2VPXcOGNmZen9eFhiFOQleXpSPr4fPPCnMZiUbFoox8x6Nlc0j8yV6Msc9HUPHuTfCvjAV-xq6hwBMXYO_npKO6EeU0p1NHJu9rbacjc/s320/IMG_5673.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the aquarium, we were reluctant to face the cold. Since all the museums we had intended to visit were closed anyway, we opted instead to rot our brains at the local arcade. There were games for all ages and tastes, from simple match 'em games for the younger set to complex sniper shooting games for the big kids. We joined the throngs of Korean kids zapping zombies, shooting bad guys, playing table hockey, and putting out fires in the White House until our designated game money ran out.<br /><br />With some reluctance, we left the arcade in the hopes of catching the English Language screening of <em>Charlie Wilson's War</em> (we still weren't ready to face the cold). Unfortunately, it was sold out, so face the cold we did.<br /><br />We made it home without a hitch. The Korean subway system is far more orderly than the NYC, but the lack of English signs adds the necessary element of adventure. Once back at the hostel, we thawed out with bowls of noodle soup, and the underfloor hearting system, one of the features for which we chose this place.<br /><br />Most of the museums will probably be closed tomorrow too, though I heard rumors that one of the palaces was open. If not, there is a highrise shopping center downtown with yet another aquarium, an Imax theatre, and a 62nd floor observation deck. These just might be the two days we that we indulge in [observing] conspicuous consumption.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-66756540594040443742008-02-06T18:27:00.001-08:002008-02-07T07:20:34.830-08:00Day 237 - When is a Planetarium Not a Planetarium?<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164080355643064066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPKO0lLd_3dQ2ssAi37qKSrGjUSa-xvKVdk5wK9xDTRI3-Nno7OANdN916anv19kcna3JSwKa_6nbbZZUSnxEgD7eM5BnsDvMWNAxzekDP_yP9X1Kp4yg6MJAq1tQJ5pl5FTUoV_gBJTFz/s320/IMG_5572.JPG" border="0" />When it's the Bangkok Educational Science Center! Listed simply as a planetarium, the science center actually consist of a planetarium PLUS 4 more science museums. Admission to all four museums plus the planetarium costs less than $3 (As opposed to the $18 for the NYC planetarium and science museum). The guidebook also says to allow at least a half day for the museum[s]. </p><p>We were there for the reccomended half day and only managed to hit the planetarium and two of the museums. </p><p>Our first stop was the main physics and technology museum. Unfortunately one wing was closed, but that didn't stop us from playng with the childrens' exibits, climbing through a giant computer, and checking out the robot exhibit - which featured among other things screening of <em>I Robot in </em>Tai<em>.</em><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdA_q8kVveynwprDnoP_t72JJL13WuDZnlnw2havophig6FnsNLUoLxnDy0ufareVeR2lF-9gOXUCfo7Agc3Ny9nGgY5d9Gf3DK9Xfftg9BAhGAcbeQzdewXInR86AOx8JSAxa8rW1A2D/s1600-h/IMG_5575.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164081399320117026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdA_q8kVveynwprDnoP_t72JJL13WuDZnlnw2havophig6FnsNLUoLxnDy0ufareVeR2lF-9gOXUCfo7Agc3Ny9nGgY5d9Gf3DK9Xfftg9BAhGAcbeQzdewXInR86AOx8JSAxa8rW1A2D/s320/IMG_5575.JPG" border="0" /></a>Afterwards we wandered through the Ocean Life museum and admired the fish. We didn't understand much, as most of the signs were entirely in Thai, but occasionally the fish names were in written English. I would not want to be caught downriver from this fellow. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpicbql8yQQEr7Qp7R23A0e7QvpUxyB9yx-bwS2x2TprdTNm6ehnW5mn4zJOu_1liJBPKz2A5J4cRhXSfzg5bRkC6aht1DZs7al0VjT25XvpRYsWX6jTAUVtOI9IWCOESpQAPqbM2ath5/s1600-h/IMG_5588.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164081682787958578" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpicbql8yQQEr7Qp7R23A0e7QvpUxyB9yx-bwS2x2TprdTNm6ehnW5mn4zJOu_1liJBPKz2A5J4cRhXSfzg5bRkC6aht1DZs7al0VjT25XvpRYsWX6jTAUVtOI9IWCOESpQAPqbM2ath5/s320/IMG_5588.JPG" border="0" /></a>Also in the exhibit were several aquariums of corals and reef fish. We were endlesly amused taking pictures of ourselves 'underwater'. </p><p>At 2:30, we trouped into the planetarium. It has been ages since either of us had been to a planetarium show, and we had forgotten how much we love the star-making machine. Once again, the dialogue was entirely in Thai, but the displays were great. It was especially neat seeing the Thai versions of familiar (and unfamiliar) constellations. No 'Big Bear' 'Little Bear' here. Thais see in the stars curling dragons, naga, and all manner of mythical half bird, half human creatures.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Q1Zlj-u5Kdb0nHB4dvCh5VYiMBjO1derziMoBsVVUa82SIwz_PfMVcPP9ayPxAcKCiH3RHxVA8Zx34HsFyV7-AeO-jDMNzSIL7zR2HAhlnVxF-42BNNLNs38d-YMmR9HRXl0hOZThy2Z/s1600-h/IMG_5593.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5164081979140702018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Q1Zlj-u5Kdb0nHB4dvCh5VYiMBjO1derziMoBsVVUa82SIwz_PfMVcPP9ayPxAcKCiH3RHxVA8Zx34HsFyV7-AeO-jDMNzSIL7zR2HAhlnVxF-42BNNLNs38d-YMmR9HRXl0hOZThy2Z/s320/IMG_5593.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the planetarium show, we wandered through the attached space museum looking at model rockets, satellites, and launchers. Who knew that Kazakistan had its own launcher and satellites? </p><p>By the time we blinked our way back into the sunlight, it was nearly 4PM and the other museums were closing down. We never even set foot in the Environmental Hall or the Museum of Medicine. </p><p>At a loss as what to do with the last few hours we had left in Bangkok, we wandered over to the Foodmall across the street from the museums. I had a huge headache, and was hoping a caffeinated drink would clear it up (it did, along with the tylenol). While there, we discovered that there was an English language screening of Sweeny Todd playing at 5PM. We had our solution of for how to entertain ourselves for our last night in Bangkok!</p><p>After the film, we ate a noodle dinner from one of our regular foodstalls, did some last-minute shifting of packs to make them more airline-friendly, and were soon on our way. The cabdriver drove as if pursued, and we made it to the airport in record-time. The check-in process was smooth, but for Cz's very suspicious thermometer, of course buried in the very bottom of his pack. After figuring out that was what had set off the sensors, even the security staff couldn't figure out why, and were very apologetic. Best we can figure is that the heat made the mercury rise and so the thermometer looked like a thn metal rod on the scanner.</p><p>In any case, we were soon tucked into our comfy Korean Air seats. As with the other Asian airlines, Korean Air is supremely comfortble, with foldable headrests, and near constant traffic from the stewardesses offering snacks and drinks. We are so unused to the treatment that it seemes almost a pity to sleep through most of it.</p>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-58577058778902882742008-02-05T04:20:00.000-08:002008-02-06T18:26:59.148-08:00Day 236 - Bangkok Hit ListWe were not very ambitious tourists the last time we were in Bangkok. Today we decided to make up for lost time, but not before lunch at the fish and soup lady's stall. She remembered us!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpknj73eL0uKqSvkKwEkBBUNv9XSzpx7JL-d_u096Tomy71U67lbWh7vW-xFJeuXZP9BnpLHoJS2yM7J2RViH69b1MS7RQ6wTdiXELYKJLrxcGnkvKw7KAqpGzW-UJJFXNpXCQzV6A7tyD/s1600-h/IMG_5559.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163477698716991154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpknj73eL0uKqSvkKwEkBBUNv9XSzpx7JL-d_u096Tomy71U67lbWh7vW-xFJeuXZP9BnpLHoJS2yM7J2RViH69b1MS7RQ6wTdiXELYKJLrxcGnkvKw7KAqpGzW-UJJFXNpXCQzV6A7tyD/s320/IMG_5559.JPG" border="0" /></a>We stopped first at the Vimanek Teak Mansion, the largest golden teak building in the world, apparently. Built in 1900, the royal family lived there for 6 years before moving and using the place simply as a storehouse for the royal furniture. In the 1980's the current queen decided to re-open not only the teak mansion, but the surrounding buildings as museums. As a result, the teak mansion is now just one of 14 small museums scattered across the former palace grounds.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7d3GFjqHQUxho71ITuUirENoSg98K_QvlchZ6JLimoQSi7lY1AZ6m6jnYVAXMJkofzEY4s2Zrl9-agRJgJ6bg0dAkCe7cGrlvGKFIPeUnu0jWGGBDsL2qeV47cw68ZOTBKeTfwnDYl4qi/s1600-h/IMG_5560.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163478458926202562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7d3GFjqHQUxho71ITuUirENoSg98K_QvlchZ6JLimoQSi7lY1AZ6m6jnYVAXMJkofzEY4s2Zrl9-agRJgJ6bg0dAkCe7cGrlvGKFIPeUnu0jWGGBDsL2qeV47cw68ZOTBKeTfwnDYl4qi/s320/IMG_5560.JPG" border="0" /></a>The Dusit Throne Room was built around the same time as the teak mansion in a Moorish style. Today it is a crafts center showcasing traditional Thai handicrafts. Especially striking were the little sculptures and boxes 'enameled' with mosaics made of tiny bits of beetle wings.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNRsioBk1pJK1Ml76dL4OwNd_TF6_LMDvTP1EwB5hVZo4r9lnL6S_xXRjq-lJaO9TUKn08V_yFVPbJkiLmUzCOGy2HUtXuKaX_QCDqLvH_Mbtnw0yPtYzYYdP_dYuOalL3IMe3gwUg7Xm/s1600-h/IMG_5564.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163479055926656722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNRsioBk1pJK1Ml76dL4OwNd_TF6_LMDvTP1EwB5hVZo4r9lnL6S_xXRjq-lJaO9TUKn08V_yFVPbJkiLmUzCOGy2HUtXuKaX_QCDqLvH_Mbtnw0yPtYzYYdP_dYuOalL3IMe3gwUg7Xm/s320/IMG_5564.JPG" border="0" /></a>The grounds also house the grand Throne Hall, a neoclassical beast, approximately 85 metres long. It was getting late in the day, so we opted not to visit, only to take photos from the outside.<br /><br />Most visitors to Bangkok stay on Kao San Road, the backpackers' ghetto. We felt we would be remiss if we didn't at least visit this most famous street. Stopping there, I can see why so many <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvg4DYmiH9a_9guuoHckuglpPBhGgudnMvwRqjONW_FRiebDLYTxCY6mO2Q4CdFuQL6cXs3cAgAf-QF6u66hD5rbFOn32B1grPulDc9NYTaqbzO1yhgikNy43vyLiir84Hy0HmbHkdFVJ/s1600-h/IMG_5569.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163479644337176290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvg4DYmiH9a_9guuoHckuglpPBhGgudnMvwRqjONW_FRiebDLYTxCY6mO2Q4CdFuQL6cXs3cAgAf-QF6u66hD5rbFOn32B1grPulDc9NYTaqbzO1yhgikNy43vyLiir84Hy0HmbHkdFVJ/s320/IMG_5569.jpg" border="0" /></a>people we have met have had less than kind things to say about Bangkok. It was crowded, dirty, and oh-so-commercial. Most of the kids there were quite young with fresh sunburns from the islands, or with plans to head to the islands at the nearest chance. Popular with boys were dreadlock extensions - so many clean-cut college kids were sitting under the nimble fingers of Thai ladies having their J-Crew preppy hair transformed into world-traveller ratty dreads. Equally popular with the girls (all white, mostly blonde) were having either braided extensions, or tiny braids put in all over their heads, complete with beads on the ends. Perhaps no one told them that they are on the entirely wrong set of islands for that style.<br /><br />Feeling sufficiently touristed, we decided to head for home. I figured if we aimed for the sun (it was late afternoon) we would be heading west, and would eventually hit the river, and by extension, the river taxis. This reconing made Cz very nervous, but he had no better idea, so off we went. Sure enough, within a few blocks, we reached a sign pointing towards Wat Pra Kaew, which I knew was right on one of the main ferry stops. From there it was easy as pie to just follow the arrows back to the riverfront and hop on the water taxi back to the skytrain.<br /><br />Back in our neighborhood, I was disapointed to find that pumpkin custard lady had taken the night off. Cz went for a massage, and I consoled myself with a sticky rice and mango. After his massage and some internetting, we went for dinner at all our favourite street stalls, and then caught the skytrain back out to the night market. Once again I was disappointed - bra lady no longer appeared to have a table - but we did finish up the last of our gift buying.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-46883193393164922162008-02-04T18:19:00.000-08:002008-02-06T18:25:45.457-08:00Day 235 - Happy ChancesThe Chiang Mai University which is near our hostel has an attached gallery. Said gallery is usually closed on Mondays, but I had seen a neat exhibit through the window when I passed by after closing on Sunday, and wanted to show Cz. When we arrived, the doors were open. Perplexed, we wandered in, and no one tried to stop us. The exhibit was called "In My Mother's Footsteps", about a woman who goes back to Germany and later Eastern Europe to trace the route her mother took during the Holocaust as a Jewish prisoner. It was a very good exhibit, and there is apparently a documentary film coming out about it if you are curious.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjALBj4RCt3i7_DjLMlpAREPffSAx3q5NCL-S4Bmnm8SrRmUzsEpCEgh9eG7U83xpqqZ185Hwk-hwieH4nkcRmadCS4XLPmzK85f8VfMpZj9L4Zp0yuHllkhXp3vjfwXWYZzVmDv4B_I4Fq/s1600-h/IMG_5542.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163315984608362082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjALBj4RCt3i7_DjLMlpAREPffSAx3q5NCL-S4Bmnm8SrRmUzsEpCEgh9eG7U83xpqqZ185Hwk-hwieH4nkcRmadCS4XLPmzK85f8VfMpZj9L4Zp0yuHllkhXp3vjfwXWYZzVmDv4B_I4Fq/s320/IMG_5542.jpg" border="0" /></a>Better though were the exhibits upstairs. Little did we know, but we had stumbled into the last-minute setup of the undergrad thesis shows. Much of their work was far better than even grad level work at home, and we were duly impressed. That said, we couldn't help but feel a little warm and fuzzy nostalgia as we watched the kids frantically painting, stapling, and installing away.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVTjSMz2QqeGKsr6FuFPR7Pk6cXgALlAKm8qy5_bpsJkycouBR3fox-NDhRUvTcetK60ij0V8aByNV63e29Vv82yNeh8D7tIWO-CIxRTXf5vsIx1JDoizLK2KZm_-hk7QbXVe0jii9P2W/s1600-h/IMG_5546.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163316826421952114" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVTjSMz2QqeGKsr6FuFPR7Pk6cXgALlAKm8qy5_bpsJkycouBR3fox-NDhRUvTcetK60ij0V8aByNV63e29Vv82yNeh8D7tIWO-CIxRTXf5vsIx1JDoizLK2KZm_-hk7QbXVe0jii9P2W/s320/IMG_5546.jpg" border="0" /></a>After the museum, we debated having a sushi lunch or visiting the Wat nearest to our guesthouse. Luckily Wat won out - sushi is everywhere, Thai Wats, only Thailand. We were well-rewarded. This was the finest wat so far in Chiang Mai. The golden Chedi housing the Buddha relics sits serenely over a cluster of shining white stupas containing the ashes of departed royal family members. The temple itself had been destroyed over the centuries, but the golden Buddha collection still stands proud ina lovely painted shelter with some traditional architectural details. Best of all, there were only two other foreign visitors. Everyone else there were monks or locals. It was a fine way to end our Chiang Mai sightseeing.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7YbS6rEFwsGIBPPH098DPrqeWimMmbAAjTJ_hwpjU-H1tvS9VIrt4AVpmkf0DqPygRDRVsomV6qm6OTx7UFd2Snk9svmCD8gc0ylvjfjLV5luyHl6-l4rsvm86e7VT1TmsjacZlqkOJb/s1600-h/IMG_5552.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163318140681944722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7YbS6rEFwsGIBPPH098DPrqeWimMmbAAjTJ_hwpjU-H1tvS9VIrt4AVpmkf0DqPygRDRVsomV6qm6OTx7UFd2Snk9svmCD8gc0ylvjfjLV5luyHl6-l4rsvm86e7VT1TmsjacZlqkOJb/s320/IMG_5552.jpg" border="0" /></a>We still had time for a quick late lunch, and indulged ourselves in another round of Mike's burgers before grabbing our packs and heading out to the train station.<br /><br />When we arrived at our platform, the grimy cars and diesel-belching engines did not inspire confidence. When we purchased our tickets, all the cheap sleepers were sold, so we had to splash out on 2-tier AC (for all of $22 each for a 14hour night train). That was the best thing that could have happened to us. When in seat position, the chairs were soft and huge enough to curl up it. The train flashed through the mountains with nary a curve nor a bump - far better than a bus. We played cards on the nearly full-sized table provided us until bedtime. And then the real treat.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMCJhgUyhoZbtcUDG9kj-Ye_lPBo_8iQaOdia9cvYk4Sw-uP_hQGqiYt0Xcrp8_uRJgcYlLu_2FONyBc4ODQ4AF2dza3db6S4-Ud4pXuweHhQmTzVJlehEznZr9S9AdfRwq4CEEM_VtI6/s1600-h/IMG_5556.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163318668962922146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMCJhgUyhoZbtcUDG9kj-Ye_lPBo_8iQaOdia9cvYk4Sw-uP_hQGqiYt0Xcrp8_uRJgcYlLu_2FONyBc4ODQ4AF2dza3db6S4-Ud4pXuweHhQmTzVJlehEznZr9S9AdfRwq4CEEM_VtI6/s320/IMG_5556.jpg" border="0" /></a>The seats tranformed into two almost twin-size beds one above the other. Not only that, but they came with 2" thick mattresses (on top of the already nice surface), sheets, pillows, a blanket, even curtains to block out light and noise from the other berths.<br /><br />We should arrive in Bangkok bright eyed and bushy tailed with this kind of service.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-90983087305812387782008-02-03T18:39:00.000-08:002008-02-05T19:36:32.250-08:00Day 234 - White Elephants Cannot Be Trusted<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht_J5QyeNDMMdN_sKOhyBByHhN9oTB03O-W4JGGKPDRDNzqyxil1k4od2C-QXwaEX_rcudPCSTtWYlN4gGpeLtRDnUHwStQJg8eghmssNiXdmVAybAKSC6Gs4wJTT0JhJMprMs67aKxae3/s1600-h/IMG_5524.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162951109956697618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht_J5QyeNDMMdN_sKOhyBByHhN9oTB03O-W4JGGKPDRDNzqyxil1k4od2C-QXwaEX_rcudPCSTtWYlN4gGpeLtRDnUHwStQJg8eghmssNiXdmVAybAKSC6Gs4wJTT0JhJMprMs67aKxae3/s320/IMG_5524.JPG" border="0" /></a>According to legend, when a new Buddha relic was discovered by the king of Chiang Mai, no one could decide where to build a temple to house it. The king decided to put the relic on the back of a white elephant (sacred animal, but not too bright) and release him in the center of town. Wherever the elephant stopped, the temple would be built. </div><br /><div>The elephant headed for the hills. Literally. He marched himself about 6km out of town before stopping on a crest overlooking the budding city. So a Wat and Chedi (Thai stupa - where Buddha relics go) were built on the spot. With the advent of automobiles, a winding road was subsequently added. And I do mean <em>winding </em>with bonus ups and downs.</div><br /><div>By the time we arrived at the top of the hill all we could do was stare dizzily about and rub our roiling bellies. Dread in anticipation of the ride down did not improve moods. </div><br /><div>We did manage to coax ourselves into the cablecar and the rest of the way up the hill to the Wat (That was one ambitious elephant!). The Wat itself was nice, but not any nicer than others we have visited. Same for the view over town - nice, but we've seen better. Furthermore, the whole complex was crawling with people, and the whole thing felt rather touristic. Of course this is probably coloured by the fact that we still hadn't completely recovered from the ride up.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHjXTBJvsVjY0hlgkQ6-EScmpg6IcvJX9lItsXjSShRQ9VDI9OGyMQV52Ju1Kx5jzkBhYdHAH4gQ3z7gcWokzNPUXoLSZe8S4OCLsAm85vai_xUl5B_SeVE_4MMon6S3t3C2zdwt7Shr8/s1600-h/IMG_5526.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162951608172903970" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHjXTBJvsVjY0hlgkQ6-EScmpg6IcvJX9lItsXjSShRQ9VDI9OGyMQV52Ju1Kx5jzkBhYdHAH4gQ3z7gcWokzNPUXoLSZe8S4OCLsAm85vai_xUl5B_SeVE_4MMon6S3t3C2zdwt7Shr8/s320/IMG_5526.JPG" border="0" /></a>We did meet this fellow guarding one of the entrances. Someone clearly had a 'complicated' relationship with their parents.</div><br /><div>The ride down the hill was nearly as bad as the ride up. We didn't toss our cookies, but our tummies made their displeasure known for the rest of the day.</div><br /><div>The owner of our hostel was a tourguide before going into hostelling, and so arranges outings for anyone who cares to join nearly every day. Today's agenda was to visit the oldest Wat in town, the first section of the city to be built, adn the Sunday Night Market, the biggest and best in town. </div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqwXAkksUeticBrvv3m-GisrGy01A5B9OD8knd_QNN85uu9a7zL24lG16rr1rmE2a_GuNxvb0ptL0w731y45pwukdAgcd22YMI3b0ipamjomShbq2AsZL3JVN4PV_x6vd7oqHsNtoR8-j/s1600-h/IMG_5533.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162952084914273842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqwXAkksUeticBrvv3m-GisrGy01A5B9OD8knd_QNN85uu9a7zL24lG16rr1rmE2a_GuNxvb0ptL0w731y45pwukdAgcd22YMI3b0ipamjomShbq2AsZL3JVN4PV_x6vd7oqHsNtoR8-j/s320/IMG_5533.JPG" border="0" /></a>We began at the old Wat which was just as nice as the one on top of the hill, and far easier to reach. The light was perfect causing the old bricks and the saffron robes of the monks sweeping and tending the grounds to glow. The hostel owner was most knowlegeable, giving us not ony a brief history of the Wat, but of Thailand as a whole.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhNDq9FypWPdfHdlqgXvSB9tfFZASLXN7LntuD5RrUn7rpS4zl1kDYgBTbFnTd_JeTSEk6bEIkCGh5-FCQv8kson8wSbcGLwMmCRTPtO2rd6o71yQo8j9Iqg9baF9gVzH2SpprG7XkTw34/s1600-h/IMG_5534.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162952454281461314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhNDq9FypWPdfHdlqgXvSB9tfFZASLXN7LntuD5RrUn7rpS4zl1kDYgBTbFnTd_JeTSEk6bEIkCGh5-FCQv8kson8wSbcGLwMmCRTPtO2rd6o71yQo8j9Iqg9baF9gVzH2SpprG7XkTw34/s320/IMG_5534.JPG" border="0" /></a>From there, we went into the old city wall where we learned more history, including the story of the ambitious white elephant. Once off the wall, it was only a short hop to the sunday market.</div><br /><div>Every Sunday night, the two main cross streets in the old town close completely to vehicles and transform into a 2km by 2km open-air market. Anything and everything is on sale f<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bR9R7IO6YcNfK6JXG8NqoGOVBp0oJPiD-c4F2UceGJMv74Fy5cman_klWCNaWRLPhYYg1CzzaCYu0bYLTQysr6rsopvwQpp77RHDRQ78p5X8YzZdhAvhaNEmfhb67HBl6Ks5k-0-OIZ2/s1600-h/IMG_5535.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162952879483223634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bR9R7IO6YcNfK6JXG8NqoGOVBp0oJPiD-c4F2UceGJMv74Fy5cman_klWCNaWRLPhYYg1CzzaCYu0bYLTQysr6rsopvwQpp77RHDRQ78p5X8YzZdhAvhaNEmfhb67HBl6Ks5k-0-OIZ2/s320/IMG_5535.JPG" border="0" /></a>rom crafts to mass produced goods to pirated CD's and DVD's. And food. Much of it is conventional (good) street fair - fruit, phad thai, spring rolls, soups - but some of it strays into the bizzare. When I say you can find any meat on a stick, I mean <em>any</em> meat on a stick. Including a giant cockroach. I should have made a video of me crunching him to bits to play in my kitchen in NY. It would be way safer to the cats than roach bombing...though perhaps it could put a dent in my social life...</div><br /><div>After the market, we all piled into a shared taxi and headed back to our own quiet neighborhood. Where we had a lovely (and so conventional) soup and rice dinner before walking back to our hostel for another round of TV before bed. </div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-53881074583100362172008-02-02T01:43:00.000-08:002008-02-05T19:31:53.300-08:00Day 233 - Party Time<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCVvULClztnoNHziVI7rhbLvlFviQqPmT-FOtwGhXR9j_3OxtvbvQA2vQggbUsFU_plcI-i1js7_4Bfpwa6c_EQjC8fPVmzx1PAm4cPKeBdR_pJ_rfSF-rRAqG-tjqoytXOKhm_Qdqo5H/s1600-h/IMG_5463.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162317400417074562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCVvULClztnoNHziVI7rhbLvlFviQqPmT-FOtwGhXR9j_3OxtvbvQA2vQggbUsFU_plcI-i1js7_4Bfpwa6c_EQjC8fPVmzx1PAm4cPKeBdR_pJ_rfSF-rRAqG-tjqoytXOKhm_Qdqo5H/s320/IMG_5463.JPG" border="0" /></a>Our visit to Chiang Mai just happened to coincide with the annual flower festival. For the festival, several streets are closed to traffic and filled with vendors selling all sorts of plants, flowers, and tasty snacks. Most exciting are the strawberries. In addition to being spring flower season, it is also the peak of strawberry season, and the strawberries from South Vietnam and North Thailand are considered some of the best in the world. We ate a lot of berries and took a lot of photos.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjveOd2vtEWMWmTPEdwYapv70TAb6VkOEH14pQxXi89H2dhtnghImHehWMOWY79rHSz8QYqTHVW3tpza5axfhlRq2GIFP3FKk7xOlIpurbv5k3b_S1b5ucA4-kYf8gJPCU4p6Bfvt-iNOli/s1600-h/IMG_5511.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162593687073291762" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjveOd2vtEWMWmTPEdwYapv70TAb6VkOEH14pQxXi89H2dhtnghImHehWMOWY79rHSz8QYqTHVW3tpza5axfhlRq2GIFP3FKk7xOlIpurbv5k3b_S1b5ucA4-kYf8gJPCU4p6Bfvt-iNOli/s320/IMG_5511.JPG" border="0" /></a>For dinner, the hostel owner took a large group of us to the Thai barbeque. There were so many of us that a few had to (chose to) ride on the roof and watch the city lights stream by. Every weekend, a building like an open-sided airplane hanger is equipped with table-top grills, platters of fresh food, and a live band. Literally thousands of Thais (and the few lucky foreigners who know about it) gather together to cook, eat, and talk. It's good fun.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZXdoUcmj5n0SjiWwZqLwtJ1DGRIG2rFBTI9C4rx3Q-BPWkSrgJNapQAEmNlNcQ3hrscChJsEAy0fYC30YaP1c5OUiX3KqnuQ-1dvYe_86A-7Rfyo5RBdMShbj6xg6A0QeczqMPjW1bzE/s1600-h/IMG_5516.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163484854132506354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZXdoUcmj5n0SjiWwZqLwtJ1DGRIG2rFBTI9C4rx3Q-BPWkSrgJNapQAEmNlNcQ3hrscChJsEAy0fYC30YaP1c5OUiX3KqnuQ-1dvYe_86A-7Rfyo5RBdMShbj6xg6A0QeczqMPjW1bzE/s320/IMG_5516.JPG" border="0" /></a>Afterwards, we all went out for Karaoke. In Thailand, Japanese-style Karaoke is wildly popular. Rather than taking place in an open bar, groups of friends can rent out rooms of various sizes, each equipped with a karaoke machine. Everyone sings together, eliminating stage fright or performance anxiety. The drinks menu might also have something to do with this.<br /><br />Overall, it was a properly festive day, beginning to end.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxmO4nwRBz0RIpppVHu3HewkW_gRT6GPg_54TM7Zo_eHtJ3YHVRDOE3Mz_YY_Hp0D_W89xyBXw8mnLWQJ_9AL5u6NUw3MqEWCTuLkPeYxmgu9rA8f9ywQ04AXEj2Vhg5Ag-dige8SlrGY/s1600-h/IMG_5485.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162319715404447154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxmO4nwRBz0RIpppVHu3HewkW_gRT6GPg_54TM7Zo_eHtJ3YHVRDOE3Mz_YY_Hp0D_W89xyBXw8mnLWQJ_9AL5u6NUw3MqEWCTuLkPeYxmgu9rA8f9ywQ04AXEj2Vhg5Ag-dige8SlrGY/s320/IMG_5485.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN-Pfyh27fW1Bs6HRkRATy9iftaO97cuZFlBeWfBQTEUEsKpkQeXx5gUPHx4FYGXL522E6MXaa73x-2Cfw37a0IMOzK71RAPQhYVexHffh9ej3QRamIXz822hIDL5R66e7jnnla2qcDQ9/s1600-h/IMG_5481.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162319118403992994" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN-Pfyh27fW1Bs6HRkRATy9iftaO97cuZFlBeWfBQTEUEsKpkQeXx5gUPHx4FYGXL522E6MXaa73x-2Cfw37a0IMOzK71RAPQhYVexHffh9ej3QRamIXz822hIDL5R66e7jnnla2qcDQ9/s320/IMG_5481.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkgIIvwmlGGmp3-nF8jCV6ZhCStjEhRD2ekhp9eWaBjKXNfbbJO39kuRUd3gFUmu3tjuuQXK7xC7psGvLQNwdFuIG2bq5DsIbvAbBp1DgdyFpjtqJvQhiHIW2YODNA2rDGC_d6WD3Qc2j/s1600-h/IMG_5472.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162318362489748882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkgIIvwmlGGmp3-nF8jCV6ZhCStjEhRD2ekhp9eWaBjKXNfbbJO39kuRUd3gFUmu3tjuuQXK7xC7psGvLQNwdFuIG2bq5DsIbvAbBp1DgdyFpjtqJvQhiHIW2YODNA2rDGC_d6WD3Qc2j/s320/IMG_5472.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WZVq-uZrrOLOkA7NO5JnXqq4AQ5D3dONjHSnovVfUnxxtWIoaX4FovnIGR1XqClUmo9PUKTn7YVj6VXTXHvYhj-hO0GszDRmuajVbJbyCRAqm5rfKHgH7AEpSRoq3VC_PK3wO1ItqmO1/s1600-h/IMG_5503.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162322489953320418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WZVq-uZrrOLOkA7NO5JnXqq4AQ5D3dONjHSnovVfUnxxtWIoaX4FovnIGR1XqClUmo9PUKTn7YVj6VXTXHvYhj-hO0GszDRmuajVbJbyCRAqm5rfKHgH7AEpSRoq3VC_PK3wO1ItqmO1/s320/IMG_5503.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08L5kIsKSRCHFpSir028OQogg7rX7DeX8xV8bvog__pw-pIpQv3SyBsw6hxRqioIEi6QHKgTTT8rZ3VOZUKI2Gtv40meQgjTpPYRi34AD2-6X3pxxs8qbDciE4PMJdzuI0gIz3h6jEiDT/s1600-h/IMG_5489.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162320535743200706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08L5kIsKSRCHFpSir028OQogg7rX7DeX8xV8bvog__pw-pIpQv3SyBsw6hxRqioIEi6QHKgTTT8rZ3VOZUKI2Gtv40meQgjTpPYRi34AD2-6X3pxxs8qbDciE4PMJdzuI0gIz3h6jEiDT/s320/IMG_5489.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeDVDgGWIURxtMx8X0eI5_iOmO2TuianXUafuMnwCwNgpfKOlyFYvvYHlAGNHGP4BSYRxm94zPdCOzUIEYXnVgZJ9X4TEs21z8Dr2fj6EGIsDXGNeUhyphenhyphenXYIA1F9perKtBEAoIGrjso-jL/s1600-h/IMG_5498.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162321540765547986" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeDVDgGWIURxtMx8X0eI5_iOmO2TuianXUafuMnwCwNgpfKOlyFYvvYHlAGNHGP4BSYRxm94zPdCOzUIEYXnVgZJ9X4TEs21z8Dr2fj6EGIsDXGNeUhyphenhyphenXYIA1F9perKtBEAoIGrjso-jL/s320/IMG_5498.JPG" border="0" /></a>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-47334292660708179142008-02-01T08:44:00.001-08:002008-02-05T05:05:15.574-08:00Day 232 - Burnin' Down the House......Or Cz goes to cooking school.<br /><br />Chiang Mai is known for its excellent Thai cuisine. As such, almost everyone who visits here takes at least one day worth of cooking classes. Even Cz was not immune.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFM7ptyvb9RhCFgkucd7Abuz0jXK8z05fjc3dzQu5sGJuI90MM5CbY31h2er3yiY6vjHi8kMv0IRn9QkYrUkl-3r0nFcWW88JZWW_33VKM2ucqAteqj5hXsZ8djBnr3-2unHQob6h656lD/s1600-h/IMG_5418.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162054350850063698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFM7ptyvb9RhCFgkucd7Abuz0jXK8z05fjc3dzQu5sGJuI90MM5CbY31h2er3yiY6vjHi8kMv0IRn9QkYrUkl-3r0nFcWW88JZWW_33VKM2ucqAteqj5hXsZ8djBnr3-2unHQob6h656lD/s320/IMG_5418.JPG" border="0" /></a>We began the day with a market tour. Our guide (and cooking teacher for the day) could be a stand-up comedian. I recognised most of the veggies and herbs that he pointed out, but he amused us by making jokes about the 'Thai' names for things, and by calling some of the well-known veggies by their Dutch names, to the surprise of the Dutch in the group, and the amusement of the English-speakers.<br /><br />Best of all, we learned how to not only make Phad Thai, but to do it with impressive displays of flame-throwing. Not exactly home-kitchen friendly, but loads of fun.<br /><br />So without further ado....<br /><br />Some recipes.<br /><br /><em><strong>Tom Yam Soup</strong></em><br /><br />Ingredients: (2 small servings)<br />1 cup water or stock (veg, chicken, or seafood)<br />3 thin slices ginger, peeled<br />3 1" pieces lemongrass<br />1 shallot roughly crushed (smash it with the side of a knife) and cut into 3 pieces<br />1-5 small green chilies roughly crushed (smash with the side of a knife)<br />1-2 Kaffir lime leaf vein removed torn into pieces (1/2 tsp lime zest would work fine)<br />2-4 mushrooms cut into chunks (we used straw mushrooms, any other kind is fine too)<br />1/4 tomato, sliced<br />Protein - can be prawns, tofu, fish, thinly sliced chicken, pork, beef...about 1/4 cup whatever you like<br />1Tbs fish sauce (soy sauce will do)<br />Cilantro (coriander leaves) to taste<br />1Tbs lime juice (fresh squeezed is best)<br />1 tsp sweet chili paste (optional)<br />1 clove garlic, skin removed, smahed and cut in half<br /><br />Bring water or stock to a boil on high heat<br /><br />Add all ingredients except cilantro and lime juice<br /><br />Cook until everything is cooked through (1-2 minutes)<br /><br />Remove from heat<br /><br />Add cilantro and lime juice<br /><br />Serve with rice, yoghurt, or beer (all of these things cut the heat)<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>Phad Thai</em></strong> (The Thai dish that almost all Westerners like)<br /><br />Ingredients (for one serving)<br />1c fresh rice noodles (or soaked and drained dried rice noodles)<br />1 clove garlic smashed, skin on (smash with the flat side of a knife. The pan will be very hot, and the skin will keep the garlic from burning)<br />1/4c firm tofu, chopped (chicken, prawns, or pork are also fine)<br />1-2Tbs oil (any kind EXCEPT olive or sesame)<br />1/3c Bean sprouts<br />1 egg, beaten<br />1/4 cup water (optional ONLY if you want flames)<br />2 chives cut into 1" pieces<br /><br />Sauce:<br />1tsp fish sauce (soy sauce is fine)<br />1Tbs white sugar, palm sugar, or maple syrup<br />1 Tbs tamirind juice (you make by adding boiling water to tamarind paste or powder - fresh lemon juice is an OK substitute)<br />1Tbs soy sauce<br /><br />Condiments:<br />Crushed chilies<br />Crushed unsalted peanuts<br />Lime wedge<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwW6q1P5oxvuQoRNIoDMBCtdsBmFml3VR-KxoYo-hM9MrikdZ-AFK5BREfjLk2fBhm4_Qeku0T3z5OqjPnO9RrcubXt6ghfaaymlTLsn3EOCBnwuM3jGK6kZ04DoeqhRHyquISS9Z_ciJ/s1600-h/IMG_5431.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162054874836073826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwW6q1P5oxvuQoRNIoDMBCtdsBmFml3VR-KxoYo-hM9MrikdZ-AFK5BREfjLk2fBhm4_Qeku0T3z5OqjPnO9RrcubXt6ghfaaymlTLsn3EOCBnwuM3jGK6kZ04DoeqhRHyquISS9Z_ciJ/s320/IMG_5431.JPG" border="0" /></a>Place oil in wok and heat over medium until smoking<br /><br />Add protein (tofu or meat) and garlic<br /><br />Stir until tofu is brown or meat is nearly cooked<br /><br />Add noodles and water (water is optional the water is what makes the flames)<br /><br />Keep stirring one minute<br /><br />Turn heat to low<br /><br />Add sauce ingredients<br /><br />Return heat to medium, and cook for 1 more minute<br /><br />Push noodles to side of wok<br /><br />Add sprouts and chives and put noodles on top (the noodles will keep the steam in on the veg, the veg will keep your noodles from burning)<br /><br />Push veg and noodles to side of wok<br /><br />Add a bit of oil on the other side<br /><br />Turn heat up to high and pour in egg to make a thin omelet<br /><br />When egg is nearly cooked, spoon noodle and veg mix on top and turn off the heat<br /><br />Fold egg around noodles and veg<br /><br />OR<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qMurjNMf-wrZ_R7KDjaKjTZqp1bRWHDkJjd1XC8C5Om3H_2zdOMuumVhAZ0_Km-xhJDdzM0SUvLCKNDmUDhX9QIIXkEhwSh0ZRDJAESmuDx44qAIFeboFgnRuei5LykAdryVN7QvvtsK/s1600-h/IMG_5457.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162055411706985842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qMurjNMf-wrZ_R7KDjaKjTZqp1bRWHDkJjd1XC8C5Om3H_2zdOMuumVhAZ0_Km-xhJDdzM0SUvLCKNDmUDhX9QIIXkEhwSh0ZRDJAESmuDx44qAIFeboFgnRuei5LykAdryVN7QvvtsK/s320/IMG_5457.JPG" border="0" /></a>After adding a bit of oil to other side of wok, just scramble the egg on that side<br /><br />Once the egg is cooked, toss together with noodles and veg<br /><br />This method actually tastes better, it's just not as pretty<br /><br />Note: Phad Thai, as with most Thai dishes, is best cooked in batches of 1-2 servings, as the key to the flavour is to cook everything very fast at high heat.jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7982997808783551953.post-50954945274999444462008-01-31T05:26:00.000-08:002008-02-05T04:55:27.242-08:00Day 231 - East Meets WestThe three days getting to Chiang Mai pretty much wiped us out. For our first day in Thailand's 'cultural capital', we did...NOTHING. Well, not much anyway.<br /><br /><div><div>We began by waking up late. I updated the blog and surfed Craigslist for apartments. Cz watched movies for what was left of the morning. At 1, we went across town to the train station to book our tickets back to Bangkok. Tickets in hand, we returned to our neighborhood for an oh-so-greasy, oh-so-Western, and oh-so-good burger lunch. </div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9uTtcLrptAX_27G-dDNGIElTb2hRGtFyjmt4TLAT4Jhmf3ClgazAZ87Hakz0ScCk9IPk2SYPhvIWhxA84CYcerl6hP_U7NgvyzftrE4bdxwztFZ0eJNObQZY815DjE5kXKb2onDOyGrt/s1600-h/IMG_5399.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162052847611510066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9uTtcLrptAX_27G-dDNGIElTb2hRGtFyjmt4TLAT4Jhmf3ClgazAZ87Hakz0ScCk9IPk2SYPhvIWhxA84CYcerl6hP_U7NgvyzftrE4bdxwztFZ0eJNObQZY815DjE5kXKb2onDOyGrt/s320/IMG_5399.JPG" border="0" /></a>The burger joint is called Mike's and looks like a classic American diner. It's motto reads 'converting vegetarians since 1979'. I can see why. I do plan to go back to my partial veggie ways when I return home, but for now, that was a damn fine burger.</div><br /><div>It was nearly 4 by the time we returned to the hostel, where we resumed doing...nothing. The common room is graced with several comfy chairs and floor cushions, a large TV, and American series on DVD. It is an enormous time suck, and our time was effectively sucked. </div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPgNmbWs4qsxqM2Bf4HTob4OXNhVwRf2Gyv79uwycac0DvBLTp3Th1TO0Xmokp0u8OFR1N1ilVknJiHVLpzkl9ClVmSywQxgf-Xy6LBVLibIhfSCP2WWnCiqtK7YUAFKosVsx8ODo0ULZ/s1600-h/IMG_5411.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162053414547193154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPgNmbWs4qsxqM2Bf4HTob4OXNhVwRf2Gyv79uwycac0DvBLTp3Th1TO0Xmokp0u8OFR1N1ilVknJiHVLpzkl9ClVmSywQxgf-Xy6LBVLibIhfSCP2WWnCiqtK7YUAFKosVsx8ODo0ULZ/s320/IMG_5411.JPG" border="0" /></a>We had planned on going on a night tour of Chiang Mai with a group of people from the hostel, but unfortunately right about dusk, it began pouring rain. Most unfortunate, especially considering that part of the night tour was to celebrate Spicy Thai (the hostel) being voted #2 hostel in all of Asia. Undaunted, the hostel owner moved the party home, with bucket drinks, snacks and music. </div><br /><div>We might not have seen much of Chiang Mai, but we certainly saw a lot of what makes Spicy Thai worth its new crown.</div></div>jesshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03475172134710551208noreply@blogger.com3