Day 22 - 21 Kilometres

Estrella to Los Arcos

The landscape we are travelling through now looks very much like parts of the American West. It´s somewhat hilly with a backdrop of mountains behind, and wide mesas ahead. I suspect we will be climbing in those mesas in the relatively near future.

Between the vineyards (LOTS of vineyards) and the olive groves, it´s all scrub pine and desert plants (Gorse, Indian Paintbrush, Assorted Grasses Dwarf Oak...). Most of the wildlife we have seen lately has been toads (small dust-coloured ones), eagles, and the occasional snake.

The dirt is shifting from yellows over to reds, and is covering everything. When we take our shoes off at night our legs are one colour above our socks, and another colour below! We needn´t worry about our bags looking new and attracting theives. The trail is doing a good job of aging them!

About 4KM out from Estrella, there is the small town of Irache. Irache is known for being a wine-producing area. Since 1895, they have been caring for pilgrims with a public fountain with two nozzles. One with fresh water. One with a fairly decent red wine. We stopped by there at about 9AM. No matter. The Medieval Pilgims had bread and wine for breakfast, no? What could be more catholic?

So we drank about a half-litre of wine, and then topped off the litre "water" bottle again. We were carrying the leftovers from yesterday´s dinner, and needed a proper table wine to accompany them.

At the fountain, we met up with two Irish boys whom we had talked with a few nights ago, and with whom we seemed to be keeping pace. We decided to walk the day together, and the good conversation made the miles under the hot, hot, HOT Spanish sun much more bearable.

The rain is Spain does NOT fall on the plain. I am beginning to doubt if the rain in Spain falls ever, at all, period.

Sweaty (oh, so sweaty and gross) we arrived in Los Arcos. If you ever do this pilgrimage, do not try to walk from 2-4 in the afternoon. Siesta happens for reason. By the time we had showered and laundered (when you only pack 3 outfits, you do a lot of laundry), it was nearly suppertime. Since we had way more food than we could eat, we invited the Irish Boys to join us, and made much merry. Made even more so by the full litre of free wine! Even the ducks got treats since the Irish Boys brought cheese, cookies, and a huge loaf of bread that the lucky ducks finished for us.

PS in Estrella we finally met someone in Theatre. Theatre is a tiny little world. We were bound to meet someone sometime. This particular fellow was a man from Madrid, currently stage-managing at La Fenice in Venice, but he also directs and acts. Yes, we exchanged cards.