Day 41 - 31.7 Kilometres

Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo

I am running on gauze and willpower. The blisters refuse to die. However, I am now confident, after having lanced, threaded, and been seriously tempted to break out the syringes and inject my blisters with iodine, that I could, in a pinch, give either of us stitches. Not that I hope it will happen, but if we do gash ourselves badly enough to need to be sewn back together again, I could totally do it.

The road itself is very pretty, mostly on gravel track and country roads through rolling farmland. This part of Spain is known for its produce, especially fruit and wine grapes. The air is heady with the scent of fruit, and at at least one fuente, there were trays of huge, sweet figs left out for the pilgrims.

The vinyards roll right up to the edge of the path, and much to Cz´s chagrin, I began collecting large, tender grapeleaves, with the intent of stuffing them for dinner. As we walked, the smell of herbs mixed in with the smell of fruit, and by the end of the day, by following my nose, I had pockets full of grape leaves, rosemary, fennel, and thyme.

Villafranca gets its name because it is one of (many) old French outposts in Spain. In honour of this fact, I decided to cook up a fancy-schmancy meal. Of course, featuring road herbs and grape leaves. (recipe to follow at the bottom of the post) I have become quite the scavenger on this trip!

The Irish Boys got a late start, and rolled into town at around 5, just as we were heading out to the grocery. Still in the mood for a big cookfest, we offered to prepare dinner for them. Really, I had ulterior motives, as one of them makes the most amazing pasta sauce with lentils, and I knew that if I cooked for them tonight, it would up my chances of lentil pasta in the next village. That and we like their company...

Because it is one of the last towns before heading back into the big mountains, Villafranca has the Gate of Forgiveness. Built in the Middle Ages for pilgrims to weak to continue on to Santiago, The Gate of Forgiveness pardons the sins of anyone who passes through it. But, blisters notwithstanding, we are young and tough, and tomorrow will head up, up into the hills.

Stuffed Grape Leaves a la Camino

Ingredients
Grape leaves
White Beans from a can
Onion
Herbs (rosemary, thyme, fennel, garlic, parsley)
Salt
Pepper
Olive oil

Steam grape leaves until tender (you can do this while the other stuff cooks)
set aside

Sautee the onions and garlic in olive oil
Mash in the beans and herbs except the parsley
Add salt and pepper to taste
Remove from heat and add chopped parsley to taste

Brush a little olive oil in the middle of a grape leaf
Add a dollop of bean mush
Put a tiny well in the bean mush and add a tiny bit of olive oil and more chopped parsley
Fold the grape leaf around it like a tortilla

Eat alone of floating in a bowl of gazpacho