Day 45 - 24.4 Kilometres

Sarria to Portomarin

Another morning in the mist. You have heard of my hobby of taking photos of Cz in large, empty landscapes, affectionately known as "the big fat nothings", or if in flat terrain "the big flat nothings". The mist was so thick this morning that the photos really are of cz dissapearing into a big nothing. Just a road and a fog and a figure floating through it. Mornings like this make it easy to believe that ghosts and dryads and any number of other beings are hovering just out of sight watching us pass. It´s a little spooky and a little magical, and no one talks very much.

No one, that is except the "tourist pilgrims". Tourist Pilgrims are the ones who start in Sarria because it is the last point at which they can begin the Camino and still cover the required 100Km for their Compostela (the certificate certifying that one has completed the pilgrimage). I may be a little elitist, having covered about 700Km by this point, but these tourists are rude and loud and pushy. Up until this point, there has been a pilgrim code of honour. It has been safe to leave all manner of valuables out, ipods and cell phones charging, etc, and know that they would still be there on one´s return. With the influx of tourists, suddenly security becomes a concern, and valuables must be watched at all times. Furthermore, early in the Camino, there was a feeling of cameraderie and joy, the idea that we are going on a grand venture together. Pilgrims always greeted each other, and if there appeared to be a problem, would make a point of stopping to help. The tourists are only thinking about covering the kilometres and pushing on to the next albergue. We have tried to keep out of this competitive spirit by leaving very early in the morning before they wake up, but it is hard not be infected by the negative juju.

Of course, there are still very positive aspects of this leg. The landscape is very green and beautiful, and the native Galicians as warm and friendly as the Spanish have been across the way. We met one gentleman today who was originally from South Africa, had done the Camino four times, and finally bought a house in Spain right on the Camino. He is in the process of restoring it and setting it up as an albergue, but is running into miles of red tape. Basically, the Camino is controlled by the EU, so any decision he makes, from repairing his roof to adding a swimming pool have to be approved both by the EU and Spanish governments.

He is a most interesting man, and we spent a good hour and half chatting with him. We got caught up on news, national and international, discussed the Camino and Santiago, and heard about some of his own travel adventures. His company gave him an allowance for a big, fancy car, but instead he drove a volkwagon, and used his car allowance to take his family all over the globe. He is truely an ispiratation, and I will certainly file away his advice and attitude.

Portomarin is a resort town for Spaniards, and the first stop for many pilgrims. As a result it feels the most "touristy" of our stops so far. We did, however, take the advice of our new friend and sought out the municipal swimming pool. It ws huge and lovely, and not overly chlorinated like US pools. Additionally, it was nearly deserted, but for a few locals and fewer pilgrims. We (the Irish Boys, the American Girl, and I) spent the afternoon lazily floating about and reading poolside. Decidedly un-pilgrimish, but very nice nonetheless.