Day 104 - Where the Deer and the Antelope Play

Today we started our drive to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. Along the way, we stopped at Keoledo National Park, India's premier bird sanctuary. The rangers are particularly agressive in pushing guides, but we were well warned of this, and held firm on our "just a map and two bicycles please" position. Once clear of the office, the parkland is criss-crossed with a network of paved and partially paved paths. It makes for some bumpy riding, but the ground is perfectly flat, so it is never difficult. We spent two hours peddling about, and saw all sorts of wildlife, from flocks of parakeets, to black buck (like really sturdy antelope), to monkeys and turtles. Also cows.

After lunch, we continued a little further to Fatehpur Sikri, a fort from the time of 17th century King Akbar. The palace was particularly interesting, as it had been built to accomodate the needs of his three wives - a Christian, a Muslim, and a Hindu. Each lady had her own living space, and each space was tailor-made for her needs. The Hindu wife was the only one to grant him a child, so she had the biggest palce, but he spent the same amount of money on each. Thus, the smaller quarters were much more lavishly decorated.

It is interesting that history often calls the people of the East Barbaric, or Primitive. When Christians conquered non-Christian lands, the first move was often to slay any dissenters. This king, however, as he married into other religions, sought to find a way in which all beliefs could coexist peacefully.

By the time we arrived in Agra, it was nearly 5:30PM. We decided to wait until tomorrow to catch the Taj at sunrise. Us and every busload of Japanese and German tourists....