Monday, October 8, 2007

Day 116 - Buddha's Hometown

The attractions of Lumbini are well spread out over a the several square kilometres of the "Lumbini Development Zone". To make seeing everything easier (possible) we rented a pair of bicycles from a neighboring guesthouse, and went off exploring. (Don't worry Lumbini is in the Terai Plains - very, very flat).

The development zone is still a work in progress, but eventually promises to be a lovely, huge park with gardens, woodlands, and loads of temples and monasteries. The centerpiece is the actual spot where Maya Devi gave birth to Siddhartha, later, Buddha. The area is protected by a simple brick building, and the actual spot covered with bulletproof glass. All around are the ruins of a 3rd century BC temple/palace complex, ancient trees strung with prayer flags, and the holy lake where Maya Devi supposedly bathed before the holy birth. Monks under the trees conduct services, to which anyone is invited. Devotees, resting homeless, and footsore tourists are equally welcome to sit in the shade of the trees and listen to the monks chant, or to join in the prayers as they choose.

We spent a good amount of time there before pedaling up to the rest of the complex. After a lap of the central area, we paused at the eternal flame, donated by the UN in NY for world peace, and continued between the rows of monasteries up to the World Peace Pagoda. A shining white building with guilded Buddhas, the Pagoda sits in the middle of the Lumbini Crane Sanctuary. We did not see any cranes there, though there were many other birds.

Near the pagoda was an upscale hotel aimed at Japanese pilgrims (the World Peace Pagoda was a gift from Japan), reputed to have good Japanese food. The incongruity of a Japanese meal in Nepal drew us there for lunch. The food was no better or worse than standard fare in any restaurant in Seattle, but it makes a good story.

Home again at dusk, we arrived in the village in time to witness modern Lumbini at its agrarian best. In the morning, I had watched the cows heading out to pasture. As we sat with our evening chairs, we watched them come home again.

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