Day 119 - Bike Versus Elephant

The Terai is the flat region of Nepal. As such, it is ideal for exploring by bicycle. Today we took bikes and a guide from the lodge and rode out to the 20,000 lakes district, a preserve that, although it does not have quite 20,000 lakes, is marked by lakes, wetlands and streams. We saw a croc sunning himself, and loads of birds. The forest is jewel-tone semi-tropical jungle. As a result, most of the birds have adapted with jewel-tone plumage. Some of the most common are irudescent blue kingfishers, emerald flycatchers, peacocks, green wood pigeons, and black-headed orioles (imagine a pigeon-size goldfinch).

20,000 lakes is protected, but large parts of it are set aside as community forest for use by the Tharu. Near the end of the preserve, we stopped for tea in a village. The children were very curious, but also very shy. We took pictures of these two girls as they stared at us, whispered, and giggled. Seeing the image of themselves on the viewscreen (hooray for digital cameras) set them in new paroxyms of giggling and whispering, though they still were too shy to come and sit with us.

We returned to the lodge for a late lunch and shower. I was in the room when Cz called that it was time to go on our elephant safari. I came out expecting the jeep to take us to the elephant stable, but no, backed up to the landing of the steps leading to our room was a patiently waiting elephant. A second elephant waited nearby, calmly munching grass and 'pruning' the hedges. We climbed on board, and trundled off in the direction of the forest. Our elephant was a young male named Jumbadu. 'Badu' on the end of an elephant's name means "boy". Girl elephants all have names ending in "Kali". Jumbadu, his handler, and the neighborhood children all had a very friendly relationship. When they rode their bikes near the elephant, the handler made mock threatening noises, and Jumbadu lumbered into a brisk trot after them. The kids on bikes slowed to let us pass, but then darted back in front, and the game was on again. Everyone (including Jumadu himself) seemed to regard the elephant as really overgrown, friendly puppy.

The brochure advertises that jungle animals are not afraid of "their big brothers", and therefore, if you are on an elephant it is possible to view the wildlife at close range. This certainly proved to be the case this evening. Only a few minutes into the ride, we came upon a mother and baby rhino bathing in a stream. They barely even twitched their ears as each elephant in the group came up to the water's edge with its load of camera-flashing tourists.

After the rhinos, we forged a path deeper into the forest, Jumbadu breaking off (and occasionally eating) branches as necessary to clear the way. As we crackled through the brush, we saw a bearded dear, two Jungle Eagle Owls (about the size and shape of the American Great Horned), and a monkey. Back in the grasslands (the forest around Chitwan is a patchwork of tall trees, scrub, and grassland), we spotted a pair of wild boar rooting for grubs and shoots.

A short while, two river fordings, and another march through the trees later, we came to another clearing. Where a herd of deer passed by a grazing rhinocerous as a large crane soared overhead. If someone had told me about it, I wouldn't have believed them, but apparently that density of animals isn't that uncommon in Chitwan. Had we been travelling on foot, they probably would have dispersed, but because we were on elephant-back, they simply continued on with their daily business.

We were particularly lucky with our friendly, playful elephant. Other riders enjoyed seeing the animals, but spent much of their rides in fear of their older, more cantankerous beasts. At the end of the ride, we each paused to pat Jumbadu and scratch his trunk and ears... and of course pose for pictures.

Our companions at the lodge today and for the elephant trek were a rowdy group of Canadians waiting for weather in the Everest region to improve enough for their flight out to their trek. Dinner became much more lively with the introduction of a guitar. One of the kitchen staff is a very talented player, and he introduced us to some of the latest Nepali hits. He was soon joined by the Canadians' guide on a drum. Then a tambourine appeared from somewhere. Soon the entire staff of the lodge was playing, singing, dancing, adn trying to convince us to dance as well. The merriement lasted well into the night. OK about 10:00, but that's probably the latest we have been out since arriving in Nepal. In the rural areas (the only part of the country we have seen so far), people tend ot get up with the daylight (around 6:30 or 7:00) and go in soon after dark (about 6:30). We have adapted to the schedule somewhat, getting up for early morning hikes and bikerides, and going to bed around 9PM after a few roadside chais or a bit of stargazing. It has been an altogether peaceful week.