Day 124 - Monsoon's Last Gasp...

We hope. We were woken in the middle of the night by thunder, lightning, and rain. Lots, and lots of rain. When we woke up again at 6:30 it was still pouring. 7:30, still pouring. We decided to stay in, watch the rain, and read in our nice, dry guest house. By 10, with the rain still pouring down, though maybe with a little less vigor, we bundled up in our rain jackets and headed out. Unfortunately, almost all the fun stuff to do in Pokhara involves being outside. Our first stop was the internet cafe - the blog and e-mails needed tending, and it was dry. From there we had intended to go to the Pumpernickel Cafe, rumoured to have some of the best baked goods and tea in town. We figured it was a good day to settle in with sweets, a big pot of tea and plenty of time to enjoy them slowly. On the way to Pumpernickel, we passed a hand-lettered sign for Momos (Nepali steamed dumplings). We followed the sign into a low, dark building. There was no menu, no foreigners - just a few worn wooden tables and benches, and steamer pot full of dumplings. We ordered one plate. They were gone in 5 minutes flat. We ordered a second plate, and the laughing owner piled it twice as high. It too disappeared in record time. These were the best momo we have had in Nepal - and we have eaten a lot of momo. Our two big plates cost about 75 cents each (45 Nepali Rupee).

After our momo feast we went next door to the Pumpernickel. Aimed entirely at homesick Westerners, Pumpernickel does a fairly good impression of a German bakery. We settled in under their awning with our big pot of tea, a chocolate croissant, apple strudel, and a cheese twist. We were joined soon after by a little grey and white kitty whose soft coat and round belly belied her pathetic mews for treats. (In fact as we were leaving he was called into the kitchen for a saucer of lentils and rice and a dish of the local yoghurt.) Kitty purring in our laps, warm food in our bellies, we waited for the rain to slow down - which it did, and eventually even stopped completely...but not before stopping by the trekking store to purchase two more heavier duty ponchos that not only covered us but our packs as well (making us look like turtles). We figured why take any chances.

After the grey morning, the new-washed rice paddies, lake, and hills seemed alive with colour. This picture is from the road between the cafe and our guesthouse. The floodplain between the commercial area and the water is almost entirely planted with several different species of rice. It ranges in height from knees to almost shoulder-tall, and is all the greenest green imaginable.

We took advantage of the break in the weather to rent a bright blue and red wooden rowboat and to paddle clear across the lake. The goal was for Cz to catch a fish, which we hoped to present to a local restaurant to grill for our dinner. No luck with the fish, but we did have some great views of the snow-capped Annapurnas where we will soon be hiking.

We caught no fish of our own, but on a recommendation from Lonely Planet, we visited the Hungry Feel Restaurant (right by our guesthouse) for a dinner of local fish curry and Nepali specialties. Again it was some of the best food we have eaten on the trip so far, and again the bill was super cheap - about 5 dollars for two big, excellent dinners, lassis, and pot of tea.

We had planned to leave tomorrow for the trek, but becuse the weather was so bad, and the restaurants so good today, we have decided to stay and give fishing, swimming, and eating another go.