We arrived in Manila Airport dazed and confused. It is about on par with Delhi's airport in terms of lack of signage or facilities. We made it through customs without a hitch, but then were at a loss regarding where to meet Cz's Aunt and cousin. Luckily, we ran into a friendly expat who showed us how to get to the most common meeting point. Sure enough, Auntie R was waiting there for us, and Cousin J was found shortly after. We awaited a few minutes, and soon one more cousin, E, arrived with his car to take us first to his apartment to drop our bags, and then out to dinner near the airport. On our way, we were reminded of the season by streets lined with Christmas light displays for sale. Rings and wreaths of blinking poinsettias, stars, and baby Jesuses lit our way.
Filipinos love feeding guests. I learned this from Cz's mom back in the States. On their own turf, it is elevated to an art form. Dinner began at the fish market where sellers with tables full of everything from tuna jaws to crabs to prawns and squid hawked their wares. Whereas some markets have rats scurrying in the corners, this one was populated by plump stray cats - about two per vendor. From the market, we went to a nearby open-air restaurant to have our (copious) haul prepared.
While we waited for the seafood to cook, E took it upon himself to buy a round of balut eggs for the table. For those of you who do not know, a balut egg is a duck egg that has been fertilized and allowed to develop for 18 days. Read: nearly formed unhatched duckling. It is hard-boiled, sprinkled with salt, and sucked down much like an oyster. Much like an oyster (even more so - I like oysters) if you can avoid looking at it, or thinking about what it is, the taste isn't too bad. I do not have that kind of mental capacity.
We also took the opportunity for some family photos. Auntie R, on the left is Cz's father's sister, and now a nun. Interesting, her convent's sister church is on the north route of The Camino De Santiago. Next is Cousin J, he works in government, and just finished walking the last 100km of a 1700km trek with the farmers whose rights he is fighting for. At the head of the table is cousin E. He bought balut eggs. All other facts are drowned out by that one. Do not expect this kind of rundown with other family photos. There is a lot of family.
The restaurant sat under the flightpath of incoming planes to Manila's airport. We knew Cz's mom would be coming in on Japan Air, and kept an eye out for the tail sign. While we waited, we indulged int he other great Filipino tradition. Karaoke. I do not sing. It's for everyone's benefit. Cz, however, picks up my slack. E kept supplying stacks of pesos, and Cz, E, and J kept the Karaoke machine occupied. Strangely, no matter what song was up, the screen showed rolling images of girls in bikinis. I saw the DVD when they were loading the machine - Hot Babes Karaoke Mix. Hot Babes Karaoke Mix includes pop songs, gospel songs, and even kiddie standards like 'Old MacDonalds. Very Odd.Finally a plane with a red and blue JAL tail flew overhead. We paid up and headed back into the airport. Technically we weren't allowed into the arrivals hall, but we played the 'newly arrived whitey' card, and waited in the duty free shop. Soon enough Cz's mom arrived with much hugging and excitement.
Back in the car we went. Back to E's apartment. Where we ate some more. Cz's mom and Auntie R stayed up all night talking. Cz and I slept for about 3 hours before getting up at 3:30 AM to catch our 5:10AM flight to Cagayan de Oro, where we will meet more family, and you guessed it, eat more.
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