Day 209 - Culture Vultures

That's the self-explanatory name for a tourist who wants to snap up every aspect of the culture they are visiting. And we were some intense culture vultures today. We woke up at dark-thirty in order to get a good place to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat. It is more impressive in half light, but I was too distracted by the pony who came down to drink in the reflecting pool than any heap of stones. As the sun rose higher, we puttered around the complex admiring the light.

Soon we tired of our old friend Angkor Wat, and headed to Angkor Thom, whose main temple, Bayon is known for the giant faces carved on each side of most of its towers. We arrived early enough that the light still strafed across the faces and the tumbledown structure, making for some very dramatic shadows. Furthermore, the building had not seen so restored, and the jungle not so hacked away, so it felt much more like stumbling into an ancient world.

Best of all though were the monks. A group of monks from one the the Eastern provinces were visiting the temples of Angkor on a two day trip. Two little monks were fascinated by American tourists, and whipped out their cell phone camera (Yes, even monks carry the latest in cell phone technology) to take pictures of California Boy (a friend we met in Bangkok), and I. As we were leaving, we ran into their group again, and took turns taking pictures of each other. It was pretty funny to be the favourite subject of the Monk's pictures, when every Western tourist I know hope for a monk to cross into their frame as they snap away at the monuments.

From Bayon, we crossed the Terrace of Elephants (a terrace supported by hundreds of stone elephants), the terrace of the Leper King (a terrace supported by hundreds of stone...figures. I don't think they were lepers), and several minor temples. Finally we arrived at Preah Kahn, a good warm up for the 'Angelina Jolie Temple'(the temple that Tomb Raider was based on)

Preah Kahn from the front appeared deceptively small. Once inside however, the center corridor stretched on for 800metres (nearly a kilometre!) and the side corridors spread out to 600metres. We liked to call the palace the ranch home of Angkor Wat, as it was all one level, but sprawled out in a labyrinth of corridors and chambers. It too was partially consumed by the jungle, with parts collapsed completely. Signs warned tourists to check for 'live stone movement' before going under/any arch, as the last big collapse wast as recent as 1999.

By early afternoon, we had been looking at ruins for over eight hours, and were pretty well knackered. It took some doing to find a tuk-tuk driver willing to take us home for a reasonable price, but finally we agreed on a fare and returned to the guesthouse for showers, naps, and postcard-writing.

At 5-sh, we visited the local market street where hawkers offered everything from fake designer jeans to whole roast quail. I bought myself a fish and some fruit so I wouldn't be as hungry when we arrived at the swank restaurant where we were scheduled to have dinner.

We were having a swank (as in $6 a head) dinner in order to watch a shadow puppet and traditional Khmer dance performance. What we didn't know was that the entire performance was to be performed by children from a home for disadvantaged and orphaned kids. Not only that, but all proceeds form the show went directly back into the program to help in the kids' education, housing, and placement with families.

The children did a great job, and really seemed to be enjoying themselves. Best of all, the format was very informal, so we were 'free to move around and watch the puppeteers and musicians at work. It was a good way to spend the evening - a great show for a great cause, and a dose of theatre to boot.