We spent day five at the Gellert Baths, and exploring two of Budapest's churches. The Gellert Baths are on the Buda side of the river. While walking over the bridge, we spotted some turrets and balustrades on the opposite rock face. A closer look revealed arches and windows carved directly into the stone. Naturally we needed to check it out. Turns out those crafty Hungarians had found yet another use for the myriad caves under their hill. A chapel! It is still in use. In fact, there was a mass in progress when we arrived, so we decided to go over to the baths first, and then come back when the church had re-opened to visitors.
Budapest is known for its baths. The one in the city park has its picture on the tourist map, so most visitors go there. The Gellert Baths, however, are the far superior baths. Half of the complex is underground, in elaborately tiled halls. The other half is open air, complete with 'naturalist sunbathing' for women and families. All the pools are fed by natural springs, and range in temperature from 8c to 38c. We spent almost four hours lolling about, frolicking in the wave pool, and even getting a Thai foot massage! The currency works well enough in our favour that we could afford to live like rock stars for a morning!
The cave church was literally that: a worship space carved out of natural caves. If one sits very still, one can hear the drip, drip of water between the clicking of rosary beads.
The other church we visited was the main cathedral of Budapest - St Stephens. Aside from stunning architecture, it also houses St Stephens actual hand. Mummified, but still - a severed hand in a gilded little reliquary.
After a busy day of sightseeing in the city we went out to the park. It wasn't as green as we had hoped, but we still found subjects - mostly other visitors to the park who had no idea they had become models - to sketch. Cz has decided to draw at least one thing from each country we visit...perhaps a posting on that if we find a scanner?
From there, off to Julie's apartment for a home-cooked meal featuring all sorts of mysterious products from the local grocery. The spices come in pouches! Tuna comes with paprika and vegetables right in the can! Olives are worth their weight in gold! It was great to hang out with Julie again, but our tickets to Prague are waiting!
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2 comments:
Hi Guys, I have to tell you that this travel blog is fantastic and makes me yearn to travel outside this country for a while. Hopefully, Andrea and I are setting aside some time in February to do just that. Please keep making entries, even if you start to think no one is reading. We are! Looks like a fantastic time, and at some point you have to take a picture of CZ. (Is he really on your trip or did he get confiscated in customs?)
Safe travels, Andy
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