Day 88 - VISAS!

It was one of our last stops of the day, but I know a lot of you have been worried so here it is at the top of the post. We got our visas for India. According to the dates printed on them, they were already ready on Friday. The talley - One day spent trying to change flights, some hours spent in the Embassy, a bit of stress. The lessons learned - Jess version: It´s relatively easy to pick up a visa on the road. The Cz version: Know all countries´ visa requirements WAY in advance to avoid panic. I suppose a combination of the two will serve us well along the way.

As for the rest of the day, we spent the morning at Schloss Shönbrun. We played real tourist, and took a headset tour of the palace interior. It was interesting to hear the history of the rooms and he people behind them, though I could not begin to tell you who belongs to which generation. Empress Elizabeth, the wife of Franz Joseph, is the most popular figure, but my personal favourites were the portaits of Maria Antoinette, later Mrs Louis XVI, as a child. It was interesting to see the childhood portraits juxtaposed against the history of royal marraiges. From cradle to grave, these children were political pawns. One of Marie Antoinette´s sisters, Maria Christine, was said to be the favourite of her parents because she was the only daughter allowed to marry for love, but I wonder if it wasn´t that she was the favourite, but simply that she had less political capital than her sisters and brothers.

Outside the palace building, formal gardens spread in every direction. We went into the privy garden and admired the flowers from the viewing terrace. The garden also featured some luscious looking lemon trees. We (or at least I) was seriously tempted to snag some fruit, but the guards probably would have frowned on that.

Equally fun, and far more legal were the boxwood labrynth and maze games. The labrynth was sufficiently tall and thick to be confusing, but not too challenging. The maze games were set up in a second labrynth with much lower bushes, and therefore much easier paths. A central fountain operated by means of a rocking board - balance for a split second, and a jet of water shoots up. A cluster of mirrors created a kaleidescope view of the garden, and a series of tiles set in the ground played the "dance glockenspiel". A precourser to "Dance Dance Revolution" perhaps?

After the mazes and games, we wound our way back up to the Gloriette for a cup of coffee. Our pass to the palace and gardens came with a coupon book, including free chocolate with our espressos.

We had wanted to also visite the zoo, but it was already after 2PM, so we opted instead to head out to Karlskirche. Karlskirche is a large Baroque church. Here too we went touristy and got the information handsets. They turned out to be very informative. Among other things, we learned that the church was build specifically because Vienna was in the throes of a second round of the plague in the middle of the 18th century. St Charles Borromeo had been a significant figure during the first round. It was hoped that by building a church to his honour, he would intercede on Vienna´s behalf for this round.

It´s strange how such a cheerfuly round-shaped and brightly coloured church should have such a dark story. Sort of like how even tragic operas from that time all seem somehow bouncy and written in a major key.

The church is currently undergoing restoration works. Rather than apologise for the scaffolding, the management has put in an elevator system, and opened some of the scaffolding for tourist viewing. It wobbles, as scaffolding is wont to do, and it is very, very high up. There are even steps up into the lantern for views out over the city and down, down into the depths of the church. The result is a mix of terror of falling and dying, and of pleasure at being able to look at the frescos close up. As we were looking, my ears perked up at another tourist saying "St Jacob" and "scallop shell". Lo and behold, up in the dom of the Karlskirche is our old friend, a Perigrino of St James.

Karlskirche is in the vicinity of the Nachstmarkt, a consistant reccomendation from our assorted friends and family. We meandered past the retaurants and through the assorted stalls, stopping to buy a back of wasabi-covered peanuts for an afternoon nosh. Interestingly enough many of the stalls were selling Indian spices, and the colours and smells made us excited about our next leg.

From Nachstmarkt, we walked to the Secession House, a landmark of Jugensteil architecture, and a museum of the Vienna Secession. Unfortunately, it was closed because today was Monday, but even the outside was pretty neat.

By then it was 5PM, and we had a date at the Indian Embassy. You can see how that went at the top of the post. Short version: We are cleared for landing in the Subcontinent.

With that off our minds, we celebrated by...

blogging.

Day 87 - Home Away From Home

This morning we had a late-ish start, lingering over breakfast and visiting with P, a friend of our friend who had also come to town for the fair. After breakfast, Cz opted to stay at our friend´s apartment and read up on some of the prevelant philosopies in India. P really got into the medieval spirit in full costume, and we were off the fair with with bells on our toes (OK, her ankles, but close enough).

At the fair, a friend of hers called on her very medieval cell phone, and soon we were joined by another well-costumed lady, whose name I have unfortunately forgotten. There is something to be said for traveling in the company of exuberant, costumed ladies. Namely, that all the stall owners will offer you tasty samples of everything from walnut-stuffed dates to honey wine. I had a wonderful time first puttering around with them, and later both puttering and watching shows on my own - highland games, a fakir, a trial, ponies... All under the first BLUE skies we´ve seen in Austria!

At 2:00 I returned to our friend´s apartment to collect Cz and return to Vienna. We thought our train was going to stop at the Hüteldorf station. Consequently some friends of the family were going to meet us there to take us back to their flat. Our train did not stop there. Fortunately they did not wait too long, and went home to wait for our call.

Our train, in fact, stopped at Spittelau - luckily just a short underground ride to Hutteldorf - Not so luckily, sans working payphones. We got to Hütteldorf as fast as we could, phoned from there, and soon were recieved by D and H, friends of my cousin. Both are very lovely people, and we are very happy to have met them! All the more so because they are providing us with a place to stay for the rest of our time in Vienna. Not only a place to stay, but our very own little apartment! Some neighbors keep a guest studio, and since they are out of town and not using it at the moment, it is our very own home away from home!

Apartment aside, we are very much enjoying our visit. We have been royally treated with coffee and home-made kuchen, a stroll through the neighborhood and the parks around Schloss Shönbrun, and home-made dinner too!

The grounds of Shönbrun comprise all manner of outbuildings and formal gardens. Today´s walk took us past strictly trimmed alleys, the palm house, and up to the Gloriette. The Gloriette is a baroque folly built on the hill above the schloss. Today it houses a little cafe and provides gorgeous views over the palace and city.

After dinner, we retreated to our little apartment to rest up for the next couple of days. We only have two days left in Vienna, and with all the advice between our friends, our list is probably four days worth of sightseeing!

Day 86 - Back in the Day...

We spent all day today at the Medieval Festival. Our friend had a meeting with at 9, so he took us into town at 8:30 to show us around and help us to get our bearings before the crowds arrived. Eggenburg is a small town, and as such, everyone knows everyone else. Our path through town was punctuated with greeting and pleasantries, many centered around how a couple of kids from NY had managed to find their way to the Eggenburg Fair. It was all very pleasant, and we felt well-prepared for the day at hand.

We needed the prep. In the states, Renn Faires are little afairs that may occupy a field or two. Eggenburg is a real, walled Medieval village. For the second weekend in Septemeber, it remembers this fact, and the whole entire town is decked out with stalls, eateries, and stages.

The day opened with a parade of all sorts of characters through the main street. It was full of music and noise, and featured everything from a fire eater to stiltwalkers, to knights on horseback. Some performers were professionals, but a good number were locals decked out in homemade regalia. The whole affair was wonderfully festive and promised a great time.

After the parade, we had a bit of time before we were to meet out friend for lunch. We wandered from stall to stall admiring wares. Near the church, a group of musicians played wild songs on bagpipes and drums while the fire eater showed his skill. Every second stall seemed to be selling good things to eat. We bided our time though.

This fair attracts both audience and participants form all over Europe. One regular is a father-son team from Bosnia who roast entire sheep over an open fire. Not for the squeamish vegetarian types, but a delicious propostition for even temporary carnivores. At the appointed time, we met with our friend at the mutton stall and revieved our heaping plates. Because our friend is a regular, we got extra choice cuts, and reduced price sturm. Sturm is a mildly alcoholic seasonal drink in this region. It is essentially pre-wine. The fruit has begun to ferment, but not quite turned. It is lightly sweet, slightly fizzy very nice.

After stuffing ourselves, we were off to see more of the fair. There were a trial and theatre show, a children's marionette show (with their mother on the side), yet more eating, and even a joust. We climbed the city walls for a view of town, and returned to that perch for the joust. Funny enough, the knights of the jouist were the same knights we had seen perform in Kutna Hora back in june! The routine was similar, but we had a great time watching nonetheless.

After the fair, we returned to our friend´s apartment. This evening´s slideshow was of the Camino. It was great seeing the famliar places and reminiscing with someone who had done the road multiple times. IN adddtion to the Spanish leg, our friend had also done the French section a few times, and has only aded fuel to the fire to return.

Day 70 - It's Good to have a King for a Pal

We spent most of today with another of my grandmother's sisters (She has two sisters and a brother, all living in Germany, and we are visiting all of them). Tante (German Aunt) took us to the summer palace belonging to a good friend of Kaiser Wilhelm II. It is a lovely estate surrounded by lush gardens and outbuildings. The grounds were used for hunting parties for the royals, and the house as political meeting point. In its history, the official function of the estate was much like that of Camp David - a place where the important members of the government would go to relax.

Ironically, the estate's chapel was the home of the Red Chapel, a group of young people (20's and 30's) opposed to the Nazis. The members of the group were discovered and executed, including, among others, the granddaughter of the estate's owner. Today, the chapel is a memorial to this brave group.

The estate is now both a tourist site - one can wander the grounds and climb the tower of the church - and a luxury hotel. Lucky for us, one need not be a guest at the hotel to partake of the delicious food, served on a terrace overlooking the grounds. We had a lovely lunch at the main house (hotel), followed by ice cream and coffee at the garden house (an adorable little cottage in its own right).

After our tour of the estate, we returned to Tante's apartment, where we had a lovely time talking and hearing various family stories. All of the family speaks English in varying degrees. The last time I saw Tante, she spoke hardly any English - today, we were able to converse quite nicely mostly in English, and with enough hand gestures that I could follow the German bits.

One subject she kept bringing up is how blessed Germany is to be war-free for 60 years. She and my grandmother, as the two older sisters, remember quie clearly the horrors of WWII. As we walked from Tante's apartment back to H and B's (the Aunt and uncle with whom we are staying), she described how the whole street had been fire-bombed and she and my grandmother had to run for shelter with the two little children. Every house on the block holds a memory for her, both for what stands there now, and what stood there before the destruction. As an American, sheltered by two great oceans from the horrors of war all around us (much of it our own doing), I find it hard to imagine living through such horror first-hand. I find myself seriously impressed with the fortitude of my own own family. I hope never have to face such things myself, but I know that I come from tough stock, and hope that I could face them with the same aplomb.

Day 62 - Real Castles Have Moats

We are still with A and E, but today they drove us back to Muensterland (the landscape near Muenster). Muensterland is very flat. Unlike around Altena, where castles are built on hilltops, in flat Muensterland, castles need other fortification. In a word, moats!

First we visited Burg Vischering, a fortified castle with thick walls, moat and drawbridge. It was landowner's castle, and as such, he needed a castle to control his knights and holdings.... also to protect himself. Today the castle holds a museum of medieval life, including samples of furniture and other household objects. Did you know that the fork was invented to accomodate fashion. When collars and ruffs got wide, spoons simply became logistically difficult. Something was needed to spear food and carry it across the expanse of ruff...and Voila! The fork is born. The castle museum also housed a wing about knights and their horses. It was geared for children, which translates to right about our speed.

The next castle we visited was Nordkirche, the summer palace of the bishop. A far cry from Vischering, this castle's moat is patrolled by while swans and friendly ducks. The grounds are neatly manicured with gardens of formal topiary and dainty statues. The castle itself is a golden sandstone structure not unlike Versailles.

In the lower level, practically on level with the moat, there is a gorgeous little restaurant. A treated us to our daily dose of caffe and kuchen in the royal setting. Of course it was lovely.

Back home, E was working hard, both for actual work, but also preparing a delicious dinner for us. We are being spoiled rotten!

Day 57 - We might need an Ark

We learned that early Altena industries were fueled by swift rivers. The swift rivers were, and are, fueled by lots of rain. This year is extraordinary, even by Altena standards.

On our first journey from the house, a policeman turned us back because so much mud and debris has washed across the road. Luckily E knows an alternate route, and we continued on our merry way. However, we hear that the Berlin airports and Ubahn (subway) are closed, some bridges are threatened, and some streets are closed to parking due to the rising water. We drove past several swollen streams and wound our way up to the castle overlooking the town.

When I was a little girl, A and E took me to the castle. I was terrified of the dark stairs, and refused to come down until E held his cigarette lighter up for more light. This trip was far less scary, and we enjoyed seeing all the exhibits.

After the castle we had a traditional German lunch...Chinese food! So I was joking about the traditional part. A and E are regulars at this lovely little restaurant run by a husbqnd and wife team - he does all the cooking, and she serves and busses the tables. I am feeling rather ashamed at my language skills - or lack thereof. The couple running the restaurant spoke Chinese, German, and some English. My family has been conversing with us quite smoothly in English. I can barely put together survival sentences. A language course is definitely in order when we get home!

After lunch we planned to go to the Jugensteil Museum, but unfortunately it was under construction. There was still a very good exhibit of Christian Rohlf's work at the site though. His styles ranged from impressionist to pointallist to expressionist as the times changed around him. I mentioned that he was like the Madonna (as in the pop star) of the art world. Cz's sensibilities were offended, but I stand by the assertion. The museum also had a room of neat flower paintings, and an interesting wing of fashion history and marketing design. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit, sans art neauvoux though it was.

Home again for Coffee and Kuchen, and the arrival of my cousin and his very cute daughter. She was shy at first, but by the car ride to Muenster was flirting away with Cz in the back seat.

We arrived in Muenster in time for dinner (yes, we are in fact eating our way through Germany), which was prepared by S (my cousin's wife), a real treat since she usually only does the baking - and also a treat just because it was good! After dinner A ( the daughter) tried to get us to reqd to her. I was lucky, as she presented me with "The Very Hungry Caterpillar", which she know most of the words to, and therefore, I only had to point at the pictures, and she "read" the story to me. Poor Cz was not so lucky. It's good that German is generally phonetic -but it does have the tendency to smash entire sentences into a single word. He muddled through though, and A seemed well-pleased with his performance.

A only put up a little fuss over bedtime (Cz's job in the car was to keep her awake to ensure this), and then we kept G and S up well past their bedtime chatting. Tomorrow we will all venture into Muenster together. It is lovely to be catching up with family, and to have such great tourguides to boot!

PS we are currently in Brussels and Belgian computer keyboards are laid out well-diferent than home. Observe.

the zuick brozn fox ju;ped over the lqzy dog;

That's what happens when I don't stare at my fingers!

Day 4 - Name That David Bowie Movie...

Labyrinth! We spent most of day four looking for, and then exploring the caves under Buda Castle. Fun fact: Budapest used to be two cities - Buda and Pest. Buda is the old town with the castle and other tourist sites. Pest also has architecture a-plenty, but is much less tourist-oriented. Anyway, the Labyrinths. Under Buda Hill there is a system of caves. The princes of various eras decided to link them with a system of tunnels, creating the Buda Labyrinths. Modern entrepeneurs decided to capitalize on the caves by adding statues, lights, and eerie sound effects. Our favourite - the fountain of wine. We are told that sometimes people actually empty their water bottles and fill up, but we came unprepared. It wasn't very good wine anyway.

While above ground, we splurged on a delicious meal including the Hungarian variation of Kohl Dermers (stuffed cabbages which I know through my German grandmother).

In Budapest, many of the decorative fountains actually flow with drinking water. We won't mention what this one reminded us of...

Buda Hill, being quite literally a hill, affords great views of the Danube - which is NOT blue - and the Pest side of the river. Just over the bridge, you can see the dome of St Stephens, just waiting for tomorrow's adventure...